ReveMoto how-to Blogs

Pulling the front fender off a 2013-2018 RAV4 takes a 10mm socket, a long extension and a utility knife, once the headlight and the side of the bumper are out of the way. Here is where the bolts are, including the one behind the liner that's easy to miss.

Pulling the rear bumper off a 5th Gen 4Runner takes a 10mm socket, a trim tool, and 16 bolts and 8 push pins. Here's where each one hides, the latch hook that trips people up, and our shop video of the whole job.

Got a damaged rear bumper on your 2018-2020 Honda Odyssey? Replacing it yourself can save you time and money, and you don't need to spend days waiting at a body shop. In this step-by-step DIY guide, we'll walk you through the complete rear bumper removal process, from the wheel well screws and underside push pins to the final clips and sensor connections. Once it's off, you'll be ready to install your new pre-painted replacement bumper from ReveMoto. The Pre-Game: Gearing Up for Success Before we dive in, let’s make sure you’ve got everything you need. A little preparation goes a long way in making this job smooth. Project Essentials Vehicle: 2018-2020 Honda Odyssey (Rear Bumper) Tools Required Phillips Head Screwdriver Flathead Screwdriver (optional, for push pins) Panel Removal Tool (highly recommended for push pins) T30 Torx Bit (or Torx 30 socket/driver) ReveMoto Pro-Tip: Lay out a clean moving blanket or a large piece of cardboard on the ground. This gives you a soft, safe spot to place your bumper once it's off, protecting that fresh paint job on your new part! The Walkthrough: Getting That Bumper Off We'll break this down into four clear phases. Take your time, follow the steps, and remember - you got this! Removal Process Phase 1: Unbolt the Wheel Wells [0:27] We’re going to kick things off on the side of the bumper, right in the wheel well. Grab your Phillips head screwdriver. Locate the three Phillips head screws tucked away in the wheel well on one side. Go ahead and unscrew all three of these. ReveMoto Tech Tip: The Rusted Screw Struggle Some of these Phillips screws, especially if they've been on there a while, might be a bit rusted and stubborn. Don't be afraid to put a little extra muscle into it, or use a penetrating oil if they're really seized up. Patience is key here! Once these three screws are out, repeat the process on the other side of the bumper, removing the three corresponding Phillips head screws from the opposite wheel well. Phase 2: Tackle the Underside [1:18] With the wheel wells clear, it's time to get underneath the van. Prepare for a lot of push pins! Get your panel removal tool ready. If you don't have one, a flathead screwdriver can work, but a panel tool makes life much easier. You'll find approximately 16 plastic push pins running along the entire bottom edge of the bumper. To remove them with a flathead, gently pry around the edge to lift the center pin, then pull the entire fastener out. With a panel removal tool, simply slide the tool under the pin and lever it out. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Push Pin Predicament These plastic push pins can be brittle, especially on an older vehicle. They're definitely a "wear-and-tear" item, so don't be surprised if a few break. It's always a good idea to have some spares on hand from your local dealership or auto parts store before you start. [3:11] As you're working your way across the bottom, keep an eye out for a unique screw. On some models, especially around the hitch cover area, you might encounter an unexpected screw that looks different from the push pins. If you find it, go ahead and unscrew it with your Phillips head. We've seen it before, and while its exact purpose might be a mystery, it's best to take it out to ensure a smooth removal. Continue removing all remaining push pins from the underside of the bumper. Phase 3: Open the Hatch & Release the Torx [6:39] Now, let's open up that tailgate to reveal the final fasteners. Lift your Honda Odyssey's tailgate all the way up. Look on the inside edge, near where the bumper meets the body, on both the driver's and passenger's sides. You'll find a T30 Torx bolt on each side. These have a star-shaped head. Grab your T30 Torx bit and unscrew both of these bolts. Phase 4: The Final Pull & Sensor Disconnect [7:32] With all the fasteners removed, the bumper is now only held on by retaining clips and, potentially, sensors. Stand to one side of the bumper. Gently but firmly pull the bumper straight out from the vehicle. You'll hear the retaining clips pop free. Work your way around the side and then across the back, gently pulling the bumper free from these clips. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Don't Rip It! (Sensor Savvy) It's crucial not to just yank the bumper off once it feels loose! Many Odyssey models, especially newer ones, have parking sensors integrated into the bumper. If your bumper has sensor holes, there will be wiring connected. Yanking it could damage these expensive sensors or the wiring harness. [8:10] Before completely detaching the bumper, reach behind it to locate and disconnect the sensor wiring. You'll find at least one main plug for the sensor harness. Press down firmly on the small tab on the connector. This tab is the release mechanism. Once the tab is pressed, gently pull the plug straight out to disconnect it. [8:27] There might be another connection or a clip that holds the wiring harness to the bumper itself. If you find a second clip holding the harness, you might need to detach the clip from the bumper before fully unplugging the sensor wire from the main body harness. Look for a similar press-tab release on this clip. Once all sensor wiring is safely disconnected, you can fully separate the bumper from the vehicle. Carefully carry it away and place it on your prepared blanket or cardboard. Ready for Your New Bumper? Now that your old bumper is off, you're ready for the easy part: installing your brand-new, perfectly color-matched rear bumper from ReveMoto! Choose the option that matches your Odyssey's setup, whether you need a bumper without park assist sensor holes or one designed for park assist sensors. Save yourself time and get a pre-painted replacement bumper matched to your vehicle's factory color. Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Bumper Without Park Assist Sensor Holes Get Bumper With Park Assist Sensor Holes FAQ: Your Quick Questions, Answered! Where are the initial screws I need to remove? You'll start by removing three Phillips head screws located in the wheel well on each side of the rear bumper. How many push pins are under the bumper, and what tools do I need for them? There are roughly 16 push pins located along the entire underside of the bumper. While a flathead screwdriver can work, a panel removal tool is highly recommended for easier and safer removal. How do I disconnect the parking sensors without damaging them? Once the bumper is mostly loose, gently pull it away just enough to reach behind it. Locate the sensor wiring plugs. You'll need to press down on a small tab on each connector to release it before gently pulling the plug out. Some wiring might also be secured by clips that need to be detached from the bumper. Disclaimer While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Need to swap out a damaged rear bumper on your 2021-2024 Acura TLX? Don't let your car sit at a body shop for days! This comprehensive, step-by-step guide will walk you through exactly how to remove your Acura TLX rear bumper yourself, saving you time, hassle, and a chunk of change. We’ll show you how to tackle everything from the tricky hidden bolts to those stubborn clips, getting your car ready for its fresh, pre-painted replacement. Looking for a perfect match? Grab your pre-painted 2021-2024 Acura TLX rear bumper cover directly from ReveMoto and get back on the road faster! Get the Pre-Painted 2021-2024 Acura TLX Rear Bumper Cover The "Pre-Game": Project Essentials & Pro Tips Before you dive in, let’s get everything laid out. A little prep goes a long way to make this job smooth and snag-free. Project Essentials Vehicle: 2021-2024 Acura TLX Tools Required Low-profile jack (recommended for clearance) Impact gun (optional, but a time-saver!) 10mm socket Extension (optional for tricky angles) Ratchet set or handheld ratchet tool Phillips head screwdriver (a shorter one or an adapter for your ratchet is highly recommended) 1/4 socket (if using a Phillips adapter) Flat plastic panel remover tool (essential for preventing broken tabs!) Pro-Tip Your Acura TLX sits pretty low, so getting it up on a jack stand (or even just jacking it up a bit) will save your back and give you the room you need, especially in those wheel wells. Rolando jacked his up right in the middle, between the two exhaust pipes underneath. Also, clear some space around your work area and have a soft blanket or cardboard ready for when the bumper comes off to protect your new part. Removal Process Phase 1: Gaining Access & Wheel Well Screws [0:26] Our first move is to get the vehicle elevated and start tackling those fender liner fasteners. Lift Your TLX: If you haven't already, carefully jack up the rear of your Acura TLX. A low-profile jack works great and can be placed right in the middle between the exhaust pipes for easy access. Locate Fender Liner: Get in close to the rear wheel well. You’ll see the fender liner - that plastic piece protecting your inner wheel area. Pull Back the Liner: Gently pull the fender liner back a bit. This will reveal the screws you need to remove. You'll have to feel around a bit for them. Remove Fender Liner Screws (3 per side): There are three Phillips head screws located inside the wheel well area that secure the bumper to the fender liner. Grab your Phillips head screwdriver, or even better, a Phillips adapter on your ratchet set. This area can be tight, so an angled tool helps. Carefully unscrew all three. One of these can be tricky to get to due to its angle, so take your time to avoid stripping the head. ReveMoto Tech Tip: That one angled screw inside the wheel well can be a real pain! If you find your screwdriver or impact gun slipping, try using a handheld ratchet with a Phillips adapter. This gives you more control and feel, reducing the chance of stripping the bolt head. Sometimes you just have to feel for the bite! Phase 2: Lower Bumper & Trunk Prep [6:25] With the wheel wells prepped, we move to the lower bumper and get the trunk ready for the next bolts. Remove Lower Bumper Screws: Look underneath the bumper. There are screws here that need to come out. Use your Phillips head screwdriver or adapter to remove them. Remove Center Push Pins (2): Right in the middle of the lower bumper, you'll find two push pins. Grab your flat plastic panel remover tool. Wedge it gently into the center of each pin, then work your way around to pry them out. They’ll pop right up when done correctly. A depressed push pin looks like this, and when it’s ready to come out, the center will be flush. Open the Trunk: Go ahead and pop open your trunk. Remove Trunk Cover: You'll see a cover inside the trunk, near the latch. Gently pull this cover off to expose the underlying bolts. Remove Trunk Bolts (10mm, 1 per side): Once the cover is off, you’ll spot a 10mm bolt on each side of the vehicle’s frame, inside the trunk area. Grab your 10mm socket and ratchet. Unscrew and remove these two bolts. Phase 3: Unclipping the Bumper Sides [9:09] This is where your plastic panel tool becomes your best friend. The bumper is secured by a series of fragile clips. Pull Back Fender Liner (Again): Go back to the wheel well and pull the fender liner back even further. This gives you better access to the bumper's side mounting bracket. Locate Bracket Tabs: Look inside; you’ll see a series of plastic tabs that clip the bumper cover onto a support bracket on the vehicle. These tabs are very fragile! Release the Clips: Take your flat plastic panel remover tool. Start with the tab closest to the edge or hole you can see. Gently press down on the tab with your tool while simultaneously pulling the bumper cover away from the vehicle. You’ll feel it release. Work your way down the line, releasing each tab one by one. ReveMoto Tech Tip: These bracket tabs are notoriously fragile on many cars, and the Acura TLX is no exception. Rolando notes that sometimes they're already broken if previous work was done. Be extra gentle and use your plastic tool to precisely depress the tab while pulling the bumper. Don't just yank the bumper - that's a surefire way to break them! Press, pull, then move to the next. Phase 4: Disconnecting Sensors & Final Removal [10:58] You’re almost there! Just one more crucial step before the bumper is fully free. Mind the Sensors: As you release the last clips, the bumper will start to sag. Be careful! It won’t fall completely off because the parking sensors are still connected. Locate Sensor Plug: Look underneath the bumper or peek through the gap as it starts to come down. You’ll find a wiring harness connected to a main plug for the parking sensors. It’s located on one side (Rolando found his on the driver's side due to sun glare). Disconnect Sensor Plug: Press down on the release tab on the plug. Gently pull the plug apart. Sometimes these plugs can get stuck. If it’s stubborn, use your flat plastic panel tool to gently wedge it around the tab or sides to help it release. Don't force it! ReveMoto Tech Tip: Stuck plugs are common, especially on older vehicles or ones exposed to the elements. Instead of pulling harder, which can damage the wires or connector, use your plastic panel tool. It's designed to apply leverage without marring plastic, helping those stubborn tabs release properly. Final Pull: With the sensor plug disconnected, your rear bumper is now fully detached! Carefully pull it away from the vehicle. FAQ: Your Quick Questions Answered How many screws are there inside the wheel well? You'll find three Phillips head screws on each side, securing the bumper to the fender liner. Make sure to pull the fender liner back to get good access! What’s the trick to unclipping the bumper from the side brackets without breaking anything? The key is to use a flat plastic panel removal tool. Gently depress each plastic tab on the bracket one by one while simultaneously pulling the bumper cover away from the vehicle. Don't pull the bumper without depressing the tabs, as they are very fragile! The bumper feels like it's going to fall after I release the clips. What's holding it? Don't worry, that's just your parking sensor wiring harness! The bumper is still connected by a main electrical plug. Gently lower the bumper enough to locate this plug and disconnect it before fully removing the bumper. Sometimes the plug needs a little help from a flat tool to release its tab. That’s it, guys! You’ve successfully removed the rear bumper from your 2021-2024 Acura TLX. Now you're all set to install your new, pre-painted bumper from ReveMoto. If you have any questions, drop a comment below, and we’ll be happy to help you out! Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted 2021-2024 Acura TLX Rear Bumper Cover DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Got a ding or planning a custom upgrade for your 2016 Honda CRV? Swapping out your front bumper doesn't have to mean days without your ride at the body shop. With a few basic tools and this step-by-step guide, you can tackle this repair right in your own garage and get your CRV looking sharp again. This comprehensive DIY walkthrough will show you exactly how to remove your front bumper, saving you time and money. Ready for a fresh, pre-painted bumper? Grab your perfect match here: 2016 Honda CRV Front Bumper Painted Tools Required Screwdriver (specifically, one that fits star-shaped screws) Panel removal tool (or a flathead screwdriver) 10mm socket and ratchet Pliers Removal Process The "Pre-Game" Before you dive in, let's get organized. A little prep makes a big difference! Project Essentials: Vehicle: 2016 Honda CRV Tools: Screwdriver (specifically, one that fits star-shaped screws), panel removal tool (or a flathead screwdriver), 10mm socket and ratchet, and pliers. Pro-Tip: Lay down a blanket or some old cardboard on your garage floor. This will give you a soft place to set your bumper down once it's off, preventing any new scratches! Also, consider turning your wheel to give yourself more access to the fender liner area. The Walkthrough Let's get this bumper off! We'll tackle this in a few logical phases, starting from the sides and working our way around. Phase 1: Fender Liner & Side Access [0:22] We're going to kick things off on the side of the vehicle, right where the bumper meets the fender. Start by turning your wheel inward to give yourself better access to the fender liner. Locate the first star-shaped screw right at the top of the fender liner. Grab your screwdriver and get that bad boy out of there. Just above that screw, you'll find a push pin. Use your panel removal tool or a flathead to gently pop its center up, then pull the entire pin out. Now, look underneath the fender liner, tucked away. There's another push pin hiding there - get it removed too. Move to the inner fender liner, closer to the wheel. There's another push pin here that needs to come out. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Push Pin Power! [1:09] Push pins can be tricky. They often have a center "plunger" that needs to be lifted first. Insert your panel removal tool (or flathead) into the grooves around the center and gently pry it up. Once that center piece is raised, the entire push pin can be pulled straight out. Phase 2: Underneath the CRV [2:54] Now, let's get down on the ground and work our way across the bottom of the bumper. You'll find a 10mm bolt and a push pin near the corner of the bumper on each side. Start by removing the push pin first. Next, grab your 10mm socket and tackle that 10mm bolt. Continue working your way across the bottom of the bumper, removing any remaining push pins you find. There might be several, so take your time. Once you get to the other side, you'll find another 10mm bolt and a push pin, just like where we started. Remove those. ReveMoto Tech Tip: The Spinning Bolt Saga [3:56] Some of those 10mm bolts underneath can be stubborn! If you find one just spinning and not loosening, it's likely the bracket behind it is also spinning. The trick here is to use a pair of pliers to hold onto that bracket while you loosen the bolt with your 10mm socket. A little counter-pressure does wonders! Phase 3: Unveiling Hidden Screws [6:42] With the bottom fasteners out, let's go back to the side of the bumper. Gently pull the edge of the bumper away from the fender. You'll reveal a hidden screw tucked away inside there. Grab your screwdriver and remove this screw. It looks similar to the one you pulled from the fender liner in Phase 1. Repeat this step on the other side of the vehicle. Phase 4: Topside Disconnects [7:10] Almost there! It's time to pop the hood and deal with the top. Open your hood. You'll see a row of push pins along the top edge of the bumper. Locate the two specific push pins that connect the bumper cover to the core support. Remove these two with your panel removal tool. Make sure you're only removing the ones directly securing the bumper cover, not any others that might be holding the grille or other components. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Grille Expectations [8:07] Typically, your front grille should remain attached to the vehicle after removing the bumper. However, if your CRV has been in an accident, the grille might already be loose or even broken, coming off with the bumper. Don't be alarmed if this happens; it's a common side effect of front-end damage. Phase 5: Final Release & Fog Lights [8:52] All fasteners should now be free! It's time for the final pull. Starting from one side, gently but firmly pull the bumper away from the vehicle. It should start to disengage from its clips along the fender and headlights. As you pull the bumper away, especially on the first side, be prepared to hold onto it! If your CRV is equipped with fog lights, they'll still be wired to the vehicle. You'll need to reach behind the bumper and unplug those electrical connectors before fully detaching the bumper. This particular CRV didn't have fog lights, but yours might! Once any fog lights are unplugged, carefully pull the bumper completely off the vehicle. Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted Front Bumper FAQ What tools will I absolutely need for this job? You'll definitely need a screwdriver (for star-shaped screws), a panel removal tool (or a flathead for push pins), and a 10mm socket with a ratchet. Pliers can also be very helpful for those tricky spinning 10mm bolts underneath. Where is that hidden screw on the side of the bumper? To find it, you'll need to gently pull the side edge of the bumper away from the fender. The screw is located behind that lip, holding the bumper in place. What do I do if one of the 10mm bolts under the car just keeps spinning? This usually means the bracket behind the bolt is spinning too. Use a pair of pliers to hold onto that bracket tightly while you loosen the 10mm bolt with your socket. This counter-pressure will allow the bolt to come out. DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

DIY 2020-2024 Chevrolet Corvette C8 Z06 Front Bumper Removal Guide Thinking of tackling a front-end repair or upgrade on your 2020-2024 Chevrolet Corvette Z06? Don't let the thought of leaving your car at a body shop for days keep you from getting it done. With this step-by-step guide, you can confidently remove your C8 Z06 front bumper right in your garage, saving you time and money. Tools Required T15 Torx driver (or power tool with T15 bit) 7mm socket (or power tool with 7mm socket) Panel remover tool or flathead screwdriver Standard ratchet set Jack stands Vehicle lift (optional but highly recommended) Before You Begin Vehicle: 2020-2024 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 Pro Tip: Since the Corvette sits so low, safely lifting the car and placing it on jack stands is your top priority. Clear your workspace and lay down a blanket or cardboard to protect your bumper once it's off. Removal Process [0:43] Wheel Well & Lower Fender Liner Disassembly We're starting in the wheel wells. Since your Z06 is already lifted, you'll have easier access. This section is all about getting those initial fasteners out to free up the fender liner. Locate the T15 Torx bolt and the plastic push pin inside the wheel well. Use your T15 driver for the bolt and a panel remover tool (or a flathead screwdriver) for the push pin. Remove the plastic push pin. Once that first push pin is out, you'll see a series of T15 Torx screws that wrap around the fender liner. Remove all of these T15 fasteners. They continue around the fender liner and underneath the side of the fender. Move to the area directly underneath the door behind the fender. Remove the 7mm bolt located there. In the same area, locate and remove two additional 7mm bolts. You'll see an accent piece nearby. Give it a firm pull. It's secured by clips and will pop off. Continue following the fender liner and remove any remaining T15 Torx screws around the wheel well. ReveMoto Tech Tip: We opted not to remove the wheels on this Z06 to avoid any risk of damaging the ceramic disc brakes. If you're careful, you can maneuver the fender liner with the wheels installed. If you choose to remove the wheels, use extra caution around the ceramic rotors. [5:43] Dropping the Fender Liner & Accessing Hidden Bolts With all visible T15 Torx screws and 7mm bolts removed from the fender liner area, it's time to lower the liner and access the hidden fasteners. Confirm that you've removed all the T15 screws around the fender liner, including those wrapping around the top and underneath the bumper. Directly underneath the side of the bumper, remove the three T15 bolts. One of these was already missing on the demonstration vehicle, but normally there are three fasteners securing this section. Carefully pull the fender liner down and back to expose the hidden hardware. Reach behind the dropped fender liner and feel for the hidden 7mm bolts. These are difficult to see, so locating them by touch is often easier. There are three 7mm bolts securing a bracket in this area. A standard ratchet set works best because space is limited. Remove all three bolts. Nearby is one additional 7mm bolt that also needs to be removed. After removing all four 7mm bolts, remove the bracket. Locate the wiring clip attached to the body and carefully unclip it. Trace the wiring coming from the bumper if needed. Repeat the entire process on the opposite side of the vehicle. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Those hidden 7mm bolts behind the fender liner are notorious. Don't get frustrated if you can't see them clearly. Feel for the bolt head first, then guide your 7mm socket into place. A standard ratchet with a shallow socket usually works best. [11:45] Underneath the Vehicle - Undertrays & Support Brackets Move underneath the front of the Corvette. Remove all of the T15 Torx screws running along the bottom edge of the front bumper. Remove the undertray side panels by taking out all T15 Torx screws securing each panel. Remove the panels. Next, remove the center undertray panel by taking out all of its T15 Torx screws. With the undertray panels removed, additional 7mm bolts will become visible underneath the vehicle. Remove these bolts. Locate the support bracket secured by three 7mm bolts and remove all three. Slide the bracket out. As it slides, you may discover a hidden fourth 7mm bolt. Remove it as well. Repeat the same procedure on the opposite side of the vehicle. [16:54] Top Bumper Fasteners & Final Release Open the hood. Remove the front engine covers by pulling them upward. They are retained by clips. With the covers removed, remove all of the T15 Torx screws running across the top edge of the front bumper. Move to the sides of the bumper where it meets the fenders. Firmly pull outward until the retaining clips release. Next, pull upward on the top edge of the bumper, especially around the headlight area, until it releases. Have a stand or another person ready to support the bumper. Before removing the bumper completely, disconnect the sensor wiring. On both the driver and passenger sides, pull the red locking tab upward first. Once unlocked, press the black tab to disconnect the connector. The connector cannot be released while the red locking tab remains in the locked position. After disconnecting all wiring and confirming all fasteners have been removed, carefully lift the bumper away from the vehicle. ReveMoto Tech Tip: You do not need to remove the headlights for this bumper removal. Pull firmly but carefully on the upper edge of the bumper once all fasteners are removed. For the sensor connectors, always pull the red locking tab upward before pressing the black release tab to avoid damaging the connector. Need a Replacement Front Bumper? Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted Front Bumper Frequently Asked Questions Where are the hidden 7mm bolts behind the fender liner? After lowering the fender liner, reach behind it between the liner and the body. The bolts are difficult to see, so locating them by feel is often the easiest approach. There are three bolts securing a bracket and one additional 7mm bolt nearby. How do I disconnect the bumper sensor wiring? Each connector uses a two-step locking mechanism. Pull the red locking tab upward first. Once unlocked, press the black release tab to disconnect the wiring harness. Do I need to remove the headlights? No. The headlights remain installed during this front bumper removal procedure. Disclaimer While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.  

If your 2013-2015 Acura RDX has a damaged rear bumper, you don't have to leave your SUV at a body shop for days. With a few basic tools and a little garage time, you can remove the rear bumper yourself and get your vehicle ready for a factory-matched replacement. Follow this complete walkthrough to safely remove the rear bumper without skipping any important steps. Tools Required Phillips head screwdriver Panel removal tool (or a sturdy flathead screwdriver) 10mm socket T30 Torx bit (star bit) Ratchet (for the 10mm socket) Before You Begin Before getting started, make sure you have a clean, flat work area with enough room behind the vehicle. Vehicle: 2013-2015 Acura RDX Pro Tip: Lay down a moving blanket or a large piece of cardboard behind the vehicle. Once the bumper is removed, you'll have a soft surface to place it on, helping protect the finish and preventing scratches. Removal Process 0:31 – Tackling Side & Underbody Fasteners Begin by removing the screws that secure the bumper to each rear quarter panel. At each side of the bumper, you'll find two Phillips head screws. One is positioned higher while the other sits slightly lower. Using your Phillips head screwdriver, carefully remove both screws. Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the vehicle. Next, move underneath the rear bumper. Several plastic push pins secure the lower portion of the bumper. Using a panel removal tool or a sturdy flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center section of each push pin before removing the entire fastener. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Plastic push pins on older vehicles commonly become brittle over time. Don't be surprised if some break during removal. This is completely normal, and replacements are readily available from your local Acura dealership or most automotive hardware stores. 5:01 – Accessing Hidden Bolts from the Liftgate Open the rear liftgate completely. Inside the liftgate opening, locate the small plastic trim cover on each side. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry each cover loose. The covers are retained by clips, so work gently to avoid damaging them. Once the cover has been removed, you'll expose a single 10mm bolt. Using your 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the bolt. Repeat this process on the opposite side. 6:14 – Removing the T30 Torx Screws While still working inside the liftgate opening, locate another fastener positioned near the 10mm bolt you just removed but slightly farther toward the rear. This fastener is a T30 Torx screw. Use your T30 Torx bit to remove the screw. Repeat the process for the matching T30 Torx screw on the opposite side. 6:47 – Unclipping and Removing the Rear Bumper With all screws, bolts, and clips removed, the bumper is now ready to come off. Starting on one side, firmly but carefully pull the bumper straight outward. The bumper will release from the retaining bracket attached along the rear quarter panel. Repeat the same process on the opposite side until both corners have completely unclipped. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Once both sides release, the bumper will be loose. This is an excellent time to have a second person help support the bumper so it doesn't unexpectedly fall or become damaged during removal. Carefully pull the bumper straight rearward and away from the vehicle to complete the removal. Your 2013-2015 Acura RDX rear bumper has now been successfully removed and the vehicle is ready for installation of your replacement bumper. Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted Acura RDX Rear Bumper Frequently Asked Questions What tools are required to remove the 2013-2015 Acura RDX rear bumper? You'll need a Phillips head screwdriver, a panel removal tool (or a sturdy flathead screwdriver), a 10mm socket with a ratchet, and a T30 Torx bit. What should I do if the underbody push pins break? This is common on older vehicles because the plastic becomes brittle with age. Replacement push pins can be purchased from your local Acura dealership or an automotive hardware store. Where are the hidden bolts located? Open the rear liftgate and remove the small plastic trim covers on each side of the opening. Under each cover you'll find a 10mm bolt. Nearby, you'll also find a T30 Torx screw that must be removed before the bumper can come off. Disclaimer While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.  

Replacing the front bumper on your 2012-2014 Ford Focus might seem like a job for the pros, but it's a project you can definitely tackle in your own garage. This guide will walk you through every bolt and clip, helping you get that fresh, pre-painted bumper installed perfectly. Forget losing your car to a body shop for days—let’s get this done right now. Tools Required T25 Torx Driver Flathead Screwdriver Panel Removal Tool (a flathead works in a pinch) Removal Process 00:34 – Headlight Teardown First things first, we can't get to the bumper until the headlights are out of the way. Don't worry, it's easier than it sounds. Pop the hood and let's get to work. Grab your T25 Torx driver. You'll see one bolt on the top of the headlight and another one tucked further inside, near the radiator support. Unscrew both T25 bolts. They're the only things holding the headlight housing in place. Once the bolts are out, gently pull the headlight straight forward to dislodge it from the vehicle. Now, unplug the main wire harness from the back of the headlight. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Stuck on the Headlight Harness? That main wire harness clip can be a real pain. If it won't release by just pressing the tab, don't force it and risk breaking the plastic. [02:36] Grab your flathead screwdriver, gently wedge it under the clip's base, and apply a little pressure while you press the tab again. It'll pop right off. Go ahead and repeat this exact process for the other headlight. 02:58 – Freeing the Fender Liners Next, we need to detach the bumper from the fender wells. The easiest way to get access is to turn your steering wheel all the way to one side. With the wheel turned, peek inside the fender liner. You'll spot two T25 screws holding the liner to the bumper. Go ahead and remove them. Follow the edge of the liner down and you'll find one plastic push pin clip. [04:04] Use your panel tool or flathead to pop the center of the pin up, then pull the entire clip out. Once one side is done, turn the wheel the other way and repeat the process on the opposite side. 04:53 – Disconnecting the Top and Bottom With the sides loose, it's time to release the rest of the bumper. Slide underneath the front of the car. You'll find a series of six push pins connecting the bottom of the bumper to the engine splash guard. Pop all of them out. [17:16] Back up top, look on the side of the radiator support where you removed the headlights. There’s one final T25 screw on each side holding the bumper bracket. Take those out. [07:14] ReveMoto Tech Tip: The Mystery Cable Hook You’ll notice a cable clipped to a plastic bracket on the driver's side. [05:57] Don't just yank it. Pry the cable housing up out of the plastic clip first. Then, slide it sideways to unhook the metal end from its slot. It's a simple twist-and-pull once you see how it works. 07:34 – The Final Pull This is it. Time to pull the bumper cover off. Start at the side where the fender meets the bumper. Get your fingers in the seam and give it a firm but steady pull. You'll hear the clips pop as they release. Do this on both sides. The last thing holding it are two small clips in the center, right under where the headlights were. A quick push with a flat object will release them. [07:57] Important: Carefully lower the bumper, but don't walk away! Your fog light wiring is still attached. Unplug the connectors on both sides. Now you can set the old bumper aside. If you need a new, perfectly matched bumper, you can grab your pre-painted 2012-2014 Ford Focus bumper from ReveMoto.com, shipped right to your door. Swap over your grilles and fog lights to the new bumper, and you're ready for installation. Installation Process 11:48 – Reinstallation Installation is just doing everything in reverse, but proper alignment is everything. First, reconnect your fog light wiring. Don't forget this step! Carefully lift the new bumper into place. Line up the sides with the brackets under the headlights and give it a gentle push to clip the top corners in. Line up the bumper with the fenders and give it a firm push to snap the side clips back into their brackets. ReveMoto Pro Tip: The Key to Perfect Alignment Before you put in a single screw, check underneath. [12:44] The black plastic engine splash guard MUST sit on top of the new bumper's bottom lip. If it’s tucked underneath, none of your fender liner holes will line up, and you'll be fighting it the whole way. With the bumper correctly aligned, reinstall all your hardware in reverse order: The six push pins on the bottom. The T25 screws and push pins in both fender liners. The single T25 screw on each side of the radiator support. Reconnect the cable hook up top. Slide the headlights back in, plug them in, and secure them with their two T25 bolts each. Close the hood, step back, and admire your work. You just saved yourself a trip to the shop and got the job done right. Garage Q&A How do you release the stubborn headlight connector on the Ford Focus? That connector can be tough. If pressing the release tab doesn't work, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry at the base of the clip while you press the tab. This extra leverage will help it pop off without breaking. What's the trick to getting the fender liner screws to line up during reinstallation? If the holes aren't lining up, it's almost always because the black engine splash guard underneath the car is tucked behind the bumper instead of laying on top of it. Make sure the splash guard overlaps the new bumper lip, and all your bolt holes should line up perfectly. Where are all the hidden clips and bolts on the bumper? The ones people miss are the single T25 Torx screws on each side, located deep inside the bumper corners right where the headlights sit. You can only access them after the headlights are completely removed. Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory-match bumper delivered straight to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted Ford Focus Front Bumper Disclaimer While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Tired of that dinged-up 2018–2020 Ford F-150 front bumper? You don’t need a body shop appointment or days without your truck. This step-by-step guide shows you exactly how to remove it yourself right in your driveway. Tools Required Plastic Prying Tool Socket Wrench 21mm Socket Front Bumper Removal Process 0:33 – Popping Off the Side Covers First up, we need to get access to the bumper hardware. The key is to remove the plastic cover pieces located on each side of the main bumper. Grab your plastic prying tool and carefully wedge it between the cover and the bumper to release the fasteners. These pieces are held in by a series of clips and a push pin, so work your way around gently until it pops free. Don't worry if a clip breaks; wear and tear on plastic parts is normal. 1:27 – Loosening the Main Support Bolts With the covers off, you’ll see the main 21mm bumper bolts that secure the bumper to the frame. Using your 21mm socket and wrench, we are going to loosen the two visible bolts, one on each side. The key here is to loosen them until they are almost out, but do not remove them completely just yet. This little trick keeps the bumper supported while we tackle the bolts hidden behind it. ReveMoto Tech Tip: Leaving the front bolts partially threaded in is a crucial safety step. It prevents the heavy bumper from unexpectedly falling down on you once you remove the final fasteners in the back. 3:06 – Removing the Hidden Rear Bolts Now it's time to find the sneaky bolts in the back. You'll need to get behind the bumper, right in the same area as the front bolts you just loosened. You are looking for another set of 21mm bolts behind the front bumper, one on the driver's side and one on the passenger's side. Go ahead and remove these two bolts completely. 5:36 – Final Bumper Extraction Once those two rear bolts are out, you can move back to the front and completely remove the 21mm bolts you loosened earlier. With all four main bolts out, the bumper is ready to come off. Carefully pull the bumper down, but don't pull it too far. Remember, the Ford F-150 fog light wiring harness is still connected on both sides. 7:30 – Disconnecting the Fog Lights With the bumper supported or resting on a protected surface, you can easily access the fog light connections. Each light has a simple plastic clip holding its wiring harness in place. Just push back on the release tab on the clip and pull down to disconnect the harness. Once both sides are unplugged, you can fully remove the bumper from the vehicle. Installation Process To reinstall your 2018–2020 Ford F-150 front bumper, simply reverse the removal steps. Start by reconnecting the fog light wiring harness on both sides, ensuring each clip is securely fastened. Carefully lift the bumper into position and align it with the frame mounts. Next, loosely reinstall the two front 21mm bolts to hold the bumper in place. Then, move behind the bumper and reinstall the two rear 21mm bolts on each side. Once all bolts are threaded correctly, tighten them securely. Finally, snap the side cover panels back into place, ensuring all clips and the push pin are properly secured. Take your time during installation to make sure everything is aligned correctly and tightened evenly. Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted Ford F-150 Front Bumper Frequently Asked Questions Where are the main bolts holding the bumper on? You’ll find four 21mm bolts on a 2018–2020 Ford F-150 front bumper. There is one easily visible on the front of each frame horn, and a second, more hidden one located directly behind it on each side. What is the trick to removing the bumper safely? The safest way is to loosen the two front 21mm bolts but leave them threaded in by a few turns. This will hold the bumper’s weight while you reach behind to remove the two rear bolts completely. After that, you can safely unscrew the front bolts. What holds the plastic side covers in place? Each cover is secured with a combination of plastic clips and a single push pin. Using a plastic prying tool helps release them without causing damage to the paint or the panel itself. DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Tired of your car being held hostage at the body shop for a simple part swap? We get it. A cracked or hazy headlight can ruin the look of your ride, but losing your car for days is a major headache. This guide shows you how to pull the old headlight assembly yourself, on your own time. If you're searching for how to remove a Lexus LC 500 headlight, this step-by-step guide walks you through the entire process. While you’re handling the removal, our team at ReveMoto can be prepping and painting your brand new part. We’ll get it shipped to your door, ready for a quick installation, keeping your car on the road where it belongs. Tools Required 10mm socket Socket extension Ratchet (power or standard handheld) Lexus LC 500 Headlight Removal Process 0:48 – Disconnecting the Electrical Harness The first step is always to safely disconnect the power. Locate the main wiring plug going into the back of the headlight assembly. You’ll see a small lever on it; you need to press this down firmly to release the internal lock. It might be a little stubborn, so press the lever all the way down and give the plug a little wiggle to work it free. Once you feel it release, pull it straight out and tuck the harness safely to the side. This is a critical first step in any Lexus LC 500 headlight replacement or removal process. 1:20 – Locating the Headlight Bolts With the power disconnected, it's time to find the four 10mm bolts that secure the headlight. There are two easy ones right on top of the assembly that you can see clearly. A third one is hiding just under a small plastic cover, which you’ll just lift up to access. The fourth bolt is located on the outer side of the headlight. Knowing all bolt locations ahead of time makes the Lexus LC 500 headlight removal much faster and prevents missed fasteners. ReveMoto Tech Tip: To get to that fourth bolt on the side and properly access the wiring harness, the front bumper cover needs to be removed first. There are hidden screws and limited space, so removing the bumper is required for full access. Refer to the bumper removal video on the ReveMoto YouTube channel for a full walkthrough. 2:14 – Removing the Bolts Grab your 10mm socket and ratchet and begin with the bolt on the side. With that one out, move to the top of the assembly. Remove the two easily accessible bolts first. For the third one, lift up the plastic cover to expose the bolt head and remove it as well. Finally, remove the last remaining bolt located on the front-facing side of the headlight. Removing the bolts in a clear order helps streamline the process and avoids unnecessary repositioning while working around the assembly. 2:56 – Removing the Headlight Assembly With all four bolts removed, the headlight is ready to come out. Gently pull up on both the front and back of the assembly to loosen it from its seating points. Once it feels free, slowly and carefully slide the headlight straight out of the vehicle. The headlight should come out smoothly without forcing any components. Installation To reinstall the headlight, simply reverse the steps above. Carefully slide the new headlight into position, making sure it aligns properly with the mounting points. Reinstall all four bolts securely, reconnect the electrical harness until it clicks into place, and ensure everything is seated correctly before finalizing the installation. Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Lexus LC 500 Headlight If your repair involves removing the front bumper, this is also the perfect opportunity to upgrade your vehicle’s look. ReveMoto offers pre-painted front bumpers and exterior parts matched to your factory color code, making it easy to complete a full front-end refresh while everything is already disassembled. FAQ What tools are required to remove a Lexus LC 500 headlight? You only need a 10mm socket, a socket extension, and a ratchet. A power ratchet can make the job faster, but a standard handheld ratchet works just fine. Do I need to remove the front bumper? Yes. The outer bolt and parts of the wiring are not fully accessible unless the front bumper cover is removed. This step is necessary to complete the headlight removal properly. Can I install the new headlight myself? Yes. Installation is simply the reverse of removal. As long as all bolts are properly secured and the wiring harness is fully connected, the process is straightforward. DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

If you want to avoid expensive labor costs and keep your vehicle out of the body shop, this DIY front bumper removal is a smart move. With a pre-painted part ready to install, you can handle the job yourself and keep your car looking brand new without the downtime. Tools Required T15 Torx bit 7mm socket Panel tool or flathead screwdriver Front Bumper Removal Process 00:45 – Clearing the Wheel Wells Start by cranking your steering wheel all the way to one side to give yourself plenty of working room inside the wheel well. Using your T15 Torx bit, locate the bolts along the edge where the bumper meets the wheel well liner. There are a total of five T15 bolts running along this edge. Remove each one carefully and keep them in a safe place so nothing gets lost during the process. Once you finish one side, get back into the driver’s seat, turn the wheel in the opposite direction, and repeat the exact same process on the other side. This step ensures both sides of the bumper are fully released from the liner. 01:58 – The Hidden Inner Fasteners With the outer bolts removed, gently pull the fender liner back. Reach behind the liner where the bumper meets the fender. There is a hidden or “sneaky” bolt located behind this area that secures the corner of the bumper. Use a 7mm socket to remove this bolt. It can be a little tight and hard to see, so take your time and feel for the bolt head. Once you find it, carefully loosen and remove it. Repeat this step on both the driver and passenger sides to fully free the bumper corners. 03:20 – The Underbelly Move underneath the vehicle to access the lower portion of the bumper. Here, you will find additional 7mm bolts securing the bumper to the splash shield. There are typically seven to eight bolts running across the bottom edge. Follow the line from one side to the other, removing each bolt as you go. Make sure all of them are removed so the bottom portion of the bumper is completely detached from the underbody shielding. 04:24 – The Upper Grille Open the hood and look along the top of the grille assembly. You will see a row of T15 Torx bolts running across the top support. Use your T15 Torx bit to remove all of these bolts. These are the final fasteners holding the bumper to the vehicle. Once removed, the bumper will feel loose, but it is still secured by clips along the headlight and fender areas. 05:21 – Extraction and Electrical Carefully pull the bumper away from the fender on each side to release the clips. If the clips feel tight or stubborn, use a panel tool near the headlight area to gently pry it loose, as the bumper is firmly clipped into the headlight housing. Once the clips are released, slowly bring the bumper down—but do not remove it completely yet. At this point, the bumper should feel loose, and that is exactly what you want. Do not pull the bumper all the way off yet. Your Equinox is equipped with fog lights and sensors that are still connected. Bring the bumper down slowly and locate the main wiring harness. To disconnect it, pull the red locking tab back first, then press down on the black release piece to separate the harness. There is also a smaller sensor wire with a red tab—press it down and unhook it carefully. Once all electrical connections are disconnected, you can fully remove the bumper from the vehicle. ReveMoto Tech Tip: The best method to unplug that harness is to slowly bring the bumper down first. Look for the red clip on the connector—you must push that red tab back before the black release will move. If you try to force it without unlocking the red tab first, you risk damaging the harness. Installation Process Reverse Steps – Reinstallation To reinstall the bumper, simply reverse the removal process. Carefully reconnect all wiring harnesses first, ensuring each connector clicks securely into place and the red locking tabs are fully engaged. Lift the bumper back into position and align it with the headlight and fender clips. Press firmly along the edges to snap the bumper back into place. Once aligned, reinstall the top T15 bolts, followed by the bottom 7mm bolts underneath the bumper. Next, reinstall the hidden 7mm bolts behind the fender liner on both sides. Finally, secure the five T15 bolts along each wheel well liner. Double-check all fasteners to ensure everything is tight and properly aligned before finishing. Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted Front Bumper DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Whether you are navigating a tight job site or backing a trailer into a narrow driveway, the massive tow mirrors on a Chevy Silverado 2500 HD are usually the first thing to take a hit. A cracked mirror housing or a shattered glass assembly doesn't just look bad; it is a major safety hazard when you're hauling heavy loads. Luckily, replacing these mirrors is a straightforward job that you can handle in your own driveway with just a few basic tools. At ReveMoto, we specialize in providing high-quality, pre-painted auto parts that match your truck's factory finish perfectly, so you can get back on the road looking like nothing ever happened. In this guide, we will walk you through the process of removing and installing a side view mirror on a 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, or 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD. While we are featuring a tow mirror in this demonstration, the steps are nearly identical for standard mirrors as well. Tools Required Flathead screwdriver or a plastic trim removal tool 7mm socket and ratchet 13mm socket and ratchet Mirror Removal Process 0:36 – Remove the Door Panel Trim To get to the mirror bolts, you first need to remove the interior door panel. Start by locating the small plastic cover behind the interior door handle. There is a tiny slit where you can insert a flathead screwdriver or trim tool to pop the cover off. Next, move to the armrest/grab handle. There is a long plastic cover on the face of the handle. Carefully wedge your tool in and pry it back. Be gentle here; there are prongs and clips holding it in place. Instead of pulling it straight out, slightly pull the trim to the side once the clips loosen to avoid snapping the plastic tabs. 2:13 – Remove the Door Panel Bolts Now that the covers are off, you will see the hardware holding the panel to the door frame. Behind the grab handle: You will find two 7mm bolts.Behind the door handle: There is one 7mm bolt.Bottom of the door panel: Look underneath the panel to find two additional 7mm bolts. Go ahead and remove all five bolts and keep them in a safe place like a magnetic tray or your cup holder. 3:25 – Pop and Lift the Door Panel With the bolts removed, grab the side of the door panel where there is a little bit of room for your hand. You will need to use a bit of force to pull the panel toward you to release the plastic pressure clips. Once the clips pop, lift the entire panel upward to clear the window track and the locking pin. You don't necessarily have to disconnect all the door wiring if you have a way to support the panel, but it makes the job easier if you do. 4:25 – Detach the Mirror Hardware Behind the triangular plastic cover (or where the door panel was covering), you will see four 13mm nuts securing the mirror to the door. You don’t need to remove this unless you’re working on that triangle piece. Pro Tip: Do not remove all the bolts or unplug the mirror immediately. Always leave at least one nut loosely threaded while disconnecting the wiring. If everything is removed at once, the mirror can suddenly drop and damage your door or the mirror itself. Loosen the nuts with your 13mm socket. I recommend leaving one nut threaded on by just a few turns while you disconnect the wiring. 6:23 – Disconnect the Wiring Harness The mirror's electrical connector has a red safety tab. Pull that red tab back to unlock the mechanism. Once the tab is moved, press down on the small black release lever. These connectors can be tight and are located in a narrow space, so using a small flathead screwdriver can make it much easier to press the tab and separate the plug. Mirror Installation Process 7:48 – Install the New Mirror Take your new ReveMoto painted mirror and feed the wiring harness through the main hole in the door. Align the four mounting studs with the holes in the door frame. Hold the mirror in place with one hand and immediately start one of the 13mm nuts with your other hand to secure it. Once the mirror is hanging safely, install the remaining three nuts. 8:27 – Tighten and Reassemble Tighten the 13mm nuts in a crisscross pattern to ensure even pressure against the door seal. You want them snug, but do not over-tighten them. If you apply too much torque, you risk snapping the mounting studs. Once the mirror is secure: Plug the wiring harness back in and push the red safety lock into place.Test the mirror's power functions to ensure everything is working.Hang the door panel back on the door frame, starting from the top.Snap the pressure clips back in and reinstall the 7mm bolts.Pop your plastic trim covers back on. Get Your Color-Matched Parts at ReveMoto Replacing a side mirror is a quick DIY project that saves you a trip to the dealership and a lot of money in labor costs. If you want your new mirror to match your Silverado’s factory paint perfectly, head over to ReveMoto. We offer high-quality, pre-painted side view mirrors that are color-matched to your truck’s factory finish, so you can install with confidence and get back on the road fast. Ready to fix your truck? Visit ReveMoto.com today to find the perfect color-matched mirror for your Chevy Silverado 2500 HD! Skip the body shop and get a perfect factory match delivered to your door. Get Your Pre-Painted Side View Mirror DISCLAIMER:While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

The Toyota Tacoma is a legendary workhorse, but its wide stance and off-road capabilities make side view mirrors prime targets for stray branches, tight garage doors, or parking lot mishaps. Driving with a cracked or hanging mirror isn't just an eyesore; it’s a significant safety hazard that compromises visibility. Fortunately, replacing a mirror on a 2016-2023 Tacoma is a straightforward task that doesn’t require a trip to an expensive body shop, especially when using a color-matched part. This guide provides a detailed walkthrough for removing a damaged mirror and installing a brand-new, pre-painted replacement from ReveMoto. By following these professional steps, the truck will be back to its original factory look. Tools Required Flathead screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 10mm socket wrench Mirror Removal Process 0:40 – Accessing the Door Panel Screws Open the door and locate the small plastic cover behind the interior door handle. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pop this cover off. Once removed, use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw located behind that panel. Then locate the second screw inside the door pull “cup” (the area used to grab and close the door) and remove it as well. Note that the larger diameter screw typically belongs in this cup area, while the smaller one is for the handle. 1:14 – Removing the Door Trim and Push-Pin The Tacoma door panel is secured with a combination of screws and clips. Locate the plastic push-pin on the inner edge of the door panel. Press the center tab inward until it clicks, then use a flathead screwdriver to pry the clip out. Next, move to the window control panel. Carefully pry it upward using a flathead screwdriver or trim tool. Once lifted, disconnect the wiring harnesses by pressing the release tabs and pulling them straight out. Set the panel aside to avoid putting strain on the wires. 2:35 – Door Panel Disassembly At the upper corner of the door (near the mirror), remove the triangular plastic sail panel by pulling it straight off with your fingers. It is held in place by friction clips. Now move to the bottom corner of the door panel. Grip firmly and pull outward to release the retaining clips. You can use a push-and-pull motion—one hand stabilizing, the other pulling—to safely pop the panel free without damaging the clips. You do not need to fully remove the panel; allow it to rest or hang slightly while keeping the wiring intact. Pro Tip: Avoid disconnecting the door handle cable unless necessary. If it becomes unhooked, make sure the green plastic retainer is properly clipped back into place during reassembly to keep the handle functioning correctly. 3:10 – Preparing for Mirror Removal Before removing any hardware, leave the wiring connected for now and always support the mirror from the outside with one hand. This is critical—once the mounting nuts are removed, the mirror can fall and potentially damage the paint or the mirror itself. 3:23 – Exposing the Mirror Bolts Locate the circular black stickers covering the mirror mounting access holes. Peel these back carefully and set them aside. These stickers help prevent wind noise and moisture intrusion, so they should be reinstalled later. 3:52 – Removing the 10mm Mounting Nuts Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove the three mounting nuts securing the mirror to the door. Important: There is a pocket of open space inside the door frame. As you loosen the nuts, tilt the socket upward and “fish” them out carefully. Taking your time here helps prevent dropping a nut inside the door, which can be difficult to retrieve and may cause rattling later. 5:24 – Disconnecting and Removing the Mirror Once all three nuts are removed, hold the mirror securely from the outside. Reach inside the door and press the release tab on the wiring harness to unplug it. Gently wiggle the mirror assembly and pull it away from the door. Mirror Installation Process 6:10 – Preparing the New Mirror Take your new pre-painted mirror and inspect the rubber gasket on the base. Ensure it is properly seated. Important: Only use one gasket. If the new mirror already has one installed, do not reuse the old gasket from the door. Doubling up will prevent a proper seal and can lead to wind noise inside the cabin. 6:21 – Feeding the Wiring and Positioning Feed the wiring harness through the door opening and align the mounting studs with the holes. Press the mirror flush against the door while keeping it supported from the outside. 7:32 – Securing the Mirror Hand-thread the 10mm nuts onto the studs first to avoid cross-threading. Once they are properly started, tighten them using a socket wrench. Avoid power tools: The mirror base is made of plastic, and using an impact or power tool can strip the studs or crack the mounting points. Tighten until snug—do not over-torque. 9:07 – Checking Fitment Inspect the mirror from the outside to ensure it sits completely flush against the door. If there are any gaps, adjust the mounting nuts accordingly. A poor seal can allow air to enter and cause noticeable wind noise while driving. 9:30 – Reassembling the Door Panel Reconnect the mirror wiring harness Reposition the door panel and align all clips with their mounting points Press firmly around the edges until each clip snaps back into place Give the panel a light tug to confirm it is securely attached Reinstall the push-pin (pull the center tab outward, insert the clip, then press it flush to lock) Reinstall the screws in their correct positions (larger in the cup, smaller at the handle) Snap the plastic covers and trim pieces back into place 11:40 – Fixing a Loose Door Handle (If Needed) If the interior door handle feels loose after reassembly, check the green cable retainer. Ensure it is properly hooked into the handle mechanism and snapped securely into its bracket. This is a common issue if the cable gets unseated during panel removal. Get Your Pre-Painted Side View Mirror DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.