Car Knowledge and FAQs

If you’ve been anywhere near the auto industry news lately, you’ve probably seen the T-word a lot. No, not "turbocharged", we’re talking tariffs. As the U.S. adjusts trade policies and revisits import taxes, car buyers, parts hunters, and even body shops are keeping a close eye. But here’s the thing, not all Japanese cars are shipped across oceans to get here. Believe it or not, some of your favorite Japanese vehicles are built right here in the U.S. That’s a big deal when tariffs could increase the cost of imported vehicles and OEM parts. So, which Japanese-branded cars are made stateside and potentially insulated from these cost hikes? Let’s take a closer look. Toyota: Lone Star Legends Toyota Tundra - Built in San Antonio, Texas since 2006. Nearly two decades of production with a lot of Texas character. Toyota Sequoia - Sharing the same production facility as the Tundra, this SUV has been assembled in Texas since 2010. These vehicles are more than just built in America, they use a high percentage of North American-sourced parts, which helps ease the impact of any trade fluctuations. Honda: Midwest Muscle Honda Accord-  Produced in Marysville, Ohio since 1982. This car has been on U.S. roadsand built on U.S. soilfor over 40 years. Honda CR-V - Manufactured in East Liberty, Ohio and Greensburg, Indiana. Honda Pilot -  Built in Lincoln, Alabama since 2003. With strong domestic production, these Hondas offer great reliability without many of the risks associated with imported parts. Nissan: Southern Style Nissan Rogue -  Built in Smyrna, Tennessee since 2013. It’s one of Nissan’s most popular models. Nissan Murano - Assembled in Canton, Mississippi since 2003. Nissan Altima - Also built in Smyrna, Tennessee since 1992. Nissan has invested heavily in American manufacturing, helping ensure parts and vehicles remain more accessible, even when trade policy shifts. Not All Parts Are U.S.-Made (But Most Are!) Even though these vehicles are assembled in the U.S., not every part is made here. Components like chips, sensors, and electronics may still be imported. But the majority of the important components - body panels, engines, frames, and suspension parts are sourced from the U.S., Canada, or Mexico. This kind of localized production helps reduce delays, manage costs, and keep repairs straightforward. Why It Matters If you’re buying replacement parts especially OEM body parts where your vehicle was built can make a difference. U.S.-assembled models are less affected by international tariffs, meaning parts are easier to source and more affordable. Next time you're browsing ReveMoto for a bumper or hood, take a look at vehicles with domestic roots. You’ll get the performance you want with fewer pricing surprises. Fun Fact: Toyota's San Antonio plant has an on-site supplier park. That means some parts travel just minutes from fabrication to final assembly. Wrap-Up Japanese car brands may come from across the Pacific, but many of their most popular models are made much closer to home. And when trade policies shift, buying a Japanese vehicle with American-made status might just be the practical and cost-effective way to go.  

If you drive a Chevrolet Silverado, you know it’s built to handle tough jobs—whether it’s hauling gear, towing trailers, or just looking mean on the road. Since hitting the market in 1999, the Silverado has built a reputation for durability, making it one of the most trusted trucks in America. But even the toughest vehicles have their weak spots, and for many Silverado owners, that weak spot is the front passenger bumper end cap. It’s a common sight: the driver’s side looks fine, but the passenger side? Not so much. Cracks, chips, or even missing end caps are more frequent on that side. But why does this happen? Is it just bad luck, or is there more to the story? Silverado Owners Noticed This Years Ago If you check out truck owner forums like SilveradoSierra.com, you’ll find plenty of discussions where owners have noticed gaps, misalignment, or faster wear on their front bumper end caps—especially on the passenger side. Some have questioned whether it’s an installation issue, while others point out that the passenger side seems to stick out just a bit more than the driver’s side. Over time, Silverado drivers have shared similar experiences: 🛻 More wind and debris hitting the passenger side at high speeds.🛻 More noticeable wear and cracking compared to the driver’s side.🛻 More parking-related scrapes and dings, since the passenger side is closer to curbs. While Chevrolet hasn’t officially called this a design flaw, real-world experience from Silverado owners suggests otherwise. Why Does the Passenger Side Stick Out More? It might not be something you’ve ever noticed, but once you do, you can’t unsee it. The passenger-side bumper extends out slightly further than the driver’s side on many Silverado models. While this might seem minor, it makes that end cap more exposed to airflow and direct impact from things like: 💨 Increased wind resistance at highway speeds, causing subtle but constant stress.🪨 More road debris impact—gravel, rocks, and anything kicked up by passing cars hits it first.🚗 More risk when parking—since the passenger side is usually closer to curbs, walls, and obstacles. It’s a small design choice that ends up leading to a big problem for many Silverado owners. The result? A cracked, dented, or missing bumper end cap long before the rest of the truck shows any signs of wear. What’s the Best Fix? If you’ve already noticed damage to your passenger-side bumper end cap, there’s no need to stress. This isn’t a rare issue, and luckily, replacing it is a lot easier than you might think. Rather than ignoring the damage—or worse, paying a body shop premium to replace it—you can swap it out with a ready-to-install, pre-painted end cap that matches your truck’s factory color. It’s an easy way to keep your Silverado looking clean without spending unnecessary time or money at a repair shop. If your truck’s bumper has taken a hit, don’t wait until it gets worse. A fresh, properly matched end cap can make all the difference.  

If you’ve ever lived in Houston or even visited during the summer, you know the sun doesn’t play around here. We’re talking triple digits, blinding UV rays, and enough humidity to steam your glasses the second you step outside. It’s brutal on people, sure but it’s even worse on your car’s paint. That rich color you loved when you first bought your ride? Give it a couple years in this heat with no protection, and it’ll be looking like a washed-out version of its former self. And even if you don’t live in Houston, chances are your climate has its own way of giving car paint a hard time. So let’s talk about what causes that fading and how to keep your paint looking fresh, no matter where you park. So What’s Fading Your Paint? ☀️ UV Rays – The Silent Paint Fader UV rays from the sun are the biggest culprit. In places like Houston, Phoenix, Vegas, or anywhere with long sunny days, your car is basically sitting in a tanning bed 24/7. UV rays break down the chemical bonds in your car’s paint, especially the clear coat. Once that layer starts to fail, the color underneath starts fading fast. 🔥 Oxidation – Heat Speeds It Up Heat accelerates oxidation, which is what happens when oxygen reacts with your paint. You’ll know it’s happening when the surface feels rough or starts looking chalky. That shine? Gone. Even in cooler places, oxidation still occurs, it just takes a little longer. 🌧️ Rain, Humidity, and Funky Weather In Houston, it’s not unusual to have blazing sun in the morning and a downpour by lunch. That rapid change? It’s rough on your car. Acid rain, water spots, and trapped moisture under dirt can all take a toll. Places with lots of coastal air or humidity (hello, Florida) have similar problems. 🌳 Nature's Little SurprisesBird poop, tree sap, pollen, bugs, it's nature's greatest hits. They’re annoying in any state. But in hot areas, those things bake into your paint in no time. That sap you thought was no big deal? It can leave a permanent scar if you ignore it. How to Keep Your Paint Looking Fresh (In Houston or Anywhere) 1. Park Smart Whether you’re in Texas, California, Georgia, or anywhere the sun shines hard, shade is your friend. Park under cover when you can. Garages are gold. Even picking the shadiest spot in a lot makes a difference. Just watch out for birds and trees with sticky attitudes. 2. Wax or Seal It Up Wax isn’t just about shine, it’s about protection. Think of it as sunscreen for your car. A good wax or synthetic sealant gives your paint a shield from UV rays, rain, and grime. In sunny places, aim to wax every couple months. If you’re somewhere colder or cloudier, you might get away with 2–3 times a year. 3. Ceramic Coating – Next-Level Protection If you’re serious about keeping your paint showroom-fresh, ceramic coating is the move. It’s more durable than wax and lasts for years, not weeks. It also makes washing way easier (which, let’s be honest, is a nice bonus when the weather’s wild). 4. Wash It Right Use proper car shampoo, soft microfiber mitts, and always dry your car after. Air-drying under the sun leads to water spots and they love to hang around. Also, avoid washing in direct sunlight if you can. Early morning or evening is your best bet. 5. Handle the Messes Fast See a bird bomb on the roof? Tree sap on the hood? Fuel spill near the gas cap? Don’t wait. Grab a microfiber cloth and some detailing spray and clean it up before the sun turns it into a permanent reminder. You can also keep touch-up paint handy for small fixes—just in case. 6. Got No Garage? Get a Car CoverFor folks without covered parking (been there), a breathable car cover can be a game-changer. Just make sure it’s a good quality one, not the scratchy, flappy kind from a discount bin. It’ll protect from UV, rain, dust, and the occasional falling acorn. Final Thoughts Houston may crank the heat to 11, but it’s not the only place putting your car’s paint to the test. Whether you’re battling desert sun, coastal salt air, mountain snow, or midwestern grime, your paint’s taking hits every day. The good news? A little prevention goes a long way. Keep it clean, protect it with wax or ceramic, and show it some love now and then. Your car will not only look better, it’ll hold its value longer, too. So yeah, whether you’re rolling down I-45 in Texas or cruising through SoCal, don’t let your paint fade into the background. Keep it bold. Keep it shiny. Keep it you.  

"You're washing your car too much – you'll ruin the paint!" If you've ever proudly maintained a regular car wash schedule, you've probably heard this well-meaning but misguided advice. It usually comes from the same person who swears by using dish soap on their car (spoiler alert: please don't) and considers rain a "free car wash." Let's bust this myth wide open, shall we? The Truth About Car Washing Here's the plot twist: regular washing isn't just safe for your car's paint – it's actually essential for protecting it. Modern automotive paint is tough stuff, engineered to withstand everything from UV rays to bird droppings (nature's most persistent car critics). But even the toughest paint needs proper care. The Real Villains in Your Paint's Story Think dirt is just unsightly? Here's what's actually attacking your car's finish while you debate whether to wash it: Dirt and Dust: These aren't just innocent particles. When pressed against your paint (like when you brush against your car wearing jeans), they act like microscopic sandpaper. It's like exfoliating your car, except nobody asked for that. Bird Droppings: Birds, apparently, have excellent aim and surprisingly acidic digestive systems. Their "gifts" can eat through your clear coat faster than a teenager goes through pizza. And no, waiting for rain to wash it off isn't a solution. Tree Sap: Think of it as nature's superglue – with a vendetta against your paint job. Once it hardens, it's not just sitting on your paint; it's bonding with it. Road Salt: Winter's favorite seasoning is also your car's worst enemy. It's like letting your car marinate in a corrosive bath. So How Often Should You Actually Wash? The sweet spot depends on your car's lifestyle (yes, your car has a lifestyle): City dweller with covered parking? Every two weeks should do it. Street parking under trees? Weekly washing is your friend. Winter warrior in salt-heavy areas? Once a week minimum during salt season. The Right Way to Wash (Because There's Actually a Wrong Way) Here's how to wash your car without accidentally giving it a matte finish: The Two-Bucket Method One bucket for soap, one for rinsing your wash mitt. It's like having a dedicated "don't contaminate my paint with dirt" system. Revolutionary, right? Use Car-Specific Products Your dishes and your car have different needs. That dish soap in your kitchen? It strips wax very fast. Invest in proper car shampoo. You can check out Mr. Pink or Griot’s Garage. Include Waxing in Your Routine: Washing removes dirt and grime, but waxing takes it a step further by creating a protective barrier between your car’s paint and environmental hazards. Think of waxing as your car’s raincoat and sunscreen combined. Aim to wax every 2–3 months or more frequently if you’re using a spray wax. Microfiber Everything Those old t-shirts you've been using as wash rags? They're better suited for dusting furniture. Microfiber towels are like silk sheets for your car – gentle and effective. Member’s Mark is a good microfiber tower brand.  Top to Bottom Gravity is your friend. Start at the top and work down, unless you enjoy washing the same spot twice. Handwashing vs. Automatic Car Washes: Which Is Better? Not all washes are created equal. Here's the scoop: Handwashing: The gold standard for car care. When done correctly, handwashing is gentler on your paint and more effective at removing dirt from hard-to-reach areas. Plus, it gives you the chance to inspect your car’s condition up close. Automatic Car Washes: Convenient? Yes. Safe? Not always. Many automatic car washes use harsh brushes and recycled water that can leave swirl marks or micro-scratches. If you must go automatic, choose touchless car washes that rely on high-pressure water and foam rather than abrasive brushes. The Bottom Line Regular washing isn't just about vanity (though there's nothing wrong with wanting your car to look its best). It's about protecting what's probably one of your biggest investments. Think of it as preventive maintenance – like flossing, but for your car. And hey, if you've been avoiding washing your car because you heard it was bad for the paint, consider yourself myth-busted. Your car's paint isn't as fragile as your colleague's ego – it just needs proper care. Pro Tips for Perfect Washing: Always rinse thoroughly before starting (pre-wash is like stretching before exercise – essential) Work in the shade or on cloudy days (sun-baked soap is not your friend) Use separate mitts for wheels and paint (cross-contamination is for kitchen nightmares, not car washing) Wax after washing to seal in the shine and protect your paint from UV rays, dirt, and grime Dry with clean microfiber towels Ready to give your car the care it deserves? Remember: washing your car regularly isn't just safe – it's one of the best ways to protect your investment and keep it looking showroom-fresh for years to come.  

The Scion FR-S, later the Toyota 86, pays tribute to the AE86. A ReveMoto customer upgraded his FR-S with a Toyota 86-style bumper, featuring a bolder grille and sharper headlights. The seamless, paint-matched conversion modernized the car while preserving its legacy.

If your vehicle is driveable after an at-fault accident and you can repair it with a painted auto body part, you could see significant savings by not taking it to the shop – even if you have the insurance to cover it. 

At a body shop, it will cost $500 to $1,500 to replace a front bumper. For more extensive repairs, your front bumper replacement cost may be up to $5,000. Learn about whether it's worth it to use a repair shop or if you can replace a front bumper on your own.

Pre-painted auto body parts will match your car -- this is a top concern for people buying painted parts, especially online. But it's fair to question how a company that's never seen your car in person is able to color match your fender, bumper, or any other part to perfectly match your vehicle. Here's how ReveMoto makes sure your painted car parts match.

There are good car paint brands for every price point. Read our guide to learn about the best paint brands and their various products, focusing on solvent-based paint.

Side view mirror replacement costs about $150 to $350, including parts and labor at an auto repair shop. Your cost will be less if you install it yourself, but the actual cost to replace a side view mirror depends on your car's make and model and the repair shop's rates, if you use one. You can lower your cost by ordering a replacement side view mirror and installing it yourself.

If you're considering giving your car a fresh look with a new paint job, expect to pay between $1,000 to $2,000 for an average-quality paint job. A good quality paint job is worth the expense if you’re really concerned about your vehicle.  WHY A GOOD PAINT JOB IS VERY IMPORTANT Car paint isn’t as essential as an engine, but good paint is important to maintaining a smooth running vehicle for years to come. Your vehicle's paint protects it from rust and other exterior damage that can eventually reach the frame. Plus, a good paint finish just looks good, keeping your vehicle looking new even if it's several years down the road. QUALITY OF PAINT JOBS Car paint job costs can vary significantly based on the quality of the paint and the level of service you choose. Here's a general breakdown: Basic Quality Paint Job: $300 to $750 A budget-friendly option suitable for those looking for a quick color change. However, it may lack the durability and longevity of higher-quality options. Medium Quality Paint Job: $1,000 to $2,000 This is often the sweet spot for many car owners. It provides a balance between cost and quality, offering a more durable finish that can withstand the elements. High Quality Paint Job: $2,500 to $7,500 or more If you're aiming for top-tier, showroom-quality results, a high-end paint job is the way to go. This option includes meticulous preparation, premium paint materials, and multiple layers for a flawless finish. CAN YOU JUST TOUCH IT UP INSTEAD? If the cost of a full high-quality paint job is more than you’re ready to pay, a touch-up paint job might do the trick. Touching up paint is a good idea if you have a few minor spots to take care of. Using touch-up paint can help you preserve most of the factory finish from your vehicle's original paint job, which you can’t replicate except with the highest quality paint jobs. If you're having a body shop take care of the work, you can expect to pay about $300 for minor repairs. Do it at home, and touch up paint typically costs about $50, plus supplies for sanding, filling in scratches and dents, priming, and clear coat. IS A CHEAP CAR PAINT JOB BAD? Bargain paint jobs usually look just like that: a bargain. A bargain vehicle paint job will paint your vehicle but typically cut corners to make supplies and labor more inexpensive. Most will use synthetic enamel paint instead of brand-name paint, and the areas where technicians paint and mark off will be significantly different with this type of paint job than a higher-quality paint job.  For example, the shop may not paint inside the door jams or the hood. The shop may also not remove your trim and other parts, instead masking them off, which can cause edges to develop, or worse, have you end up with paint overspray from spray painting. QUESTIONS TO ASK TO ENSURE QUALITY PAINT JOB Shopping around for an auto paint service? Ensure you're getting an adequate paint job by asking these questions: What types of paint do you use?  Lower-quality shops will often use inexpensive synthetic enamel paint. Look for shops that offer brand-name paint that is of higher quality. Do you remove trim and parts before painting? Shops that offer a higher quality paint job will remove your trim and other parts rather than simply masking over them. How do you prep the exterior?  Prep at a low-quality paint shop may not be more than a quick wash and basic sanding before spraying it down. But a higher quality shop will completely sand your vehicle and remove rust spots and dents to ensure a smooth finish. You’ll be advised of any critical repairs you should make before painting. How many coats of paint do you apply? Low-quality shops may only apply a few coats of paint, but better shops will have at least three, including a clear coat for a smooth, glossy look. For comparison's sake: the highest quality shops will often apply 20 or more layers of paint, including up to eight clear coat applications. What is your warranty policy? Warranties can vary from six months to a lifetime, depending on the quality of the paint shop. Typically, medium-quality paint jobs will warranty their work for five years and repaint your car if needed. Can I see recently completed vehicles? The answer should always be yes. Take a look at freshly painted cars and see what you think about the quality of work. Ask which service level they selected, and note any imperfections that you'd be unhappy with. In addition to asking these questions, it's a good idea to seek out recommendations from family and friends. Be sure to read reviews online before committing to an auto paint shop. TIPS FOR SAVING MONEY ON YOUR NEXT PAINT JOB If a premium paint job is out of your budget, there are still ways to save money without compromising quality: Look for discounts online: Many auto body shops offer promotions on social media, websites, or daily deal platforms. Inquire about DIY prep work: Some shops allow customers to perform their own prep work, saving on labor costs DO IT YOURSELF AUTOMOTIVE PAINT JOBS Do-it-yourself auto repair often saves money, and painting is no exception. But it's important to note that painting isn't exactly your average auto repair. This job requires specialized tools and supplies that can be expensive to buy or rent.  Painting your vehicle can be very time-consuming, requiring lots of attention to detail and patience. Additionally, professional shops have access to tools that the average vehicle owner just can't use, such as a paint booth that minimizes dust and other debris that can cause problems with the finish. Whether you choose a body shop paint job or one in your garage, painting your vehicle protects it from the elements and can add years to the life of your vehicle -- not to mention a better look. CONCLUSION In the realm of car paint job costs, finding the right balance between your budget and the quality you desire is key. Whether you choose a professional service or embark on a DIY project, investing in a quality paint job not only enhances your vehicle's appearance but also protects it from the elements, adding years to its life. Before making a decision, gather quotes from reputable auto body shops, read reviews, and consider your long-term goals for the vehicle. After all, a well-executed paint job is an investment in both aesthetics and preservation. Now that you have a clearer picture of what goes into the cost of a car paint job, you can make an informed choice that suits both your style and your budget. Happy painting!

As you shop for painted car parts, you might see terms including aftermarket, CAPA, OEM. What do they mean and how do they affect the quality and price of your car parts? While CAPA and OEM parts can offer the assurance of manufacturer guarantees, they’re not worth the additional expense for most car owners replacing exterior painted car parts.

ReveMoto's painted car parts offer superior matching and ideal pricing and efficiency for customers who need vehicle replacement parts. With a painted car part from ReveMoto, you'll enjoy the convenience of having your replacement part delivered directly to your door already painted, cured, and ready to install. This can save you time, money, and hassle -- and we use better paint than many body shops, at a better price. Read on to learn more about ReveMoto's paint, our processes, and our lifetime guarantee on paint and checkout our painted parts reviews.   What Makes ReveMoto's Paint Superior ReveMoto offers custom color matched painted parts with a lifetime guarantee on paint. Each part is painted to order and color matched to ensure your part will look perfect with the rest of your vehicle. And while ReveMoto delivers a premium service that can be very expensive at the body shop, with ReveMoto, you'll enjoy a fair, affordable price with convenience and efficiency. With a set price for each painted car part, you can ensure that your purchase will be both fair and affordable. Unlike some body shops, ReveMoto will not try to nickel and dime you according to your knowledge about paint prices. Rather, every customer will pay the same affordable price for each part. ReveMoto's paint process also offers convenience and efficiency. While at a body shop, you may have to rent a car and leave your car behind to paint, blend, and cure the finish, then install the part, all you have to do with ReveMoto is place your order, take delivery, and follow simple installation instructions. Even if you have your part installed by a professional, you'll save both money and time, as your part won't have to be painted or blended with paint cure time: it arrives ready to go.   ReveMoto's High Quality Paint Product ReveMoto exclusively uses Lesonal paints, which are custom mixed in-house. This high quality solvent based paint product is known for its perfect color matching and durability and is trusted by leading dealerships and reputable body shops nationwide. Lesonal meets the highest quality standards on the market with easy to match, durable colors that have a great finish. ReveMoto trusts Lesonal paint for perfect results with a lifetime warranty.   How ReveMoto Paints Car Parts Each car part that ReveMoto paints is painted in our paint booth. This booth is well ventilated and cleaned frequently to minimize dust. After each part is painted, we perform a quality inspection to check for paint drips or dust. Any imperfections are buffed out so that you can enjoy a perfect finish on your newly painted car part. ReveMoto's painters are trained by our paint vendor, learning the proper techniques for applying paint and creating custom paint codes to generate color matches for our customers' vehicles. And as new techniques and system upgrades are introduced a few times a year, our painters receive training updates, so they're always on top of the latest in painting knowledge.   How ReveMoto Ensures Perfect Color Matching To ensure a perfect color match for your painted car part, we require your vehicle identification number (VIN) or paint code and year. This allows us to use our system to generate a perfect match. Our paint manufacturer frequently takes in paint samples and conducts research on paint fading for different car panels over time. Each paint code variant will match a particular car's year, make and model. With your VIN or paint code and year, we are able to input the paint code, and our system will generate the perfect color to match your existing paint -- including the typical fade experienced over the years.   Sending in a Part for Paint Matching While our color matching is typically perfect with just your VIN or paint code and year, you can send in a paint sample if you'd like. With a sample, we are able to color match by comparing it to our large paint sample inventory, and will adjust grams of paint as needed. Sending in a part is not necessary to get a perfect match on paint, but if you prefer to send it in, you can follow this process: Order the part Find your confirmation email with your order number Email sales@revemoto.com with your order number to inform us that you're sending in a sample Cut out a 6x6 inch piece of the damaged part, or remove your gas cap Send your sample to: ReveMoto (Attn: Paint Dpt) Order #: XXXX, Customer Name11515 Tanner RoadHouston, TX 77041 Returns and ReveMoto's Lifetime Paint Warranty While ReveMoto's process ensures that your new painted car part should match perfectly, if it doesn't, you can send it back. If you need to make a return for paint match, simply follow this process: Contact us at sales@revemoto.com and send us photos of the part side-by-side with your car ReveMoto will reply and send you a shipping label to return the mismatched part, as well as a shipping label to send us a paint sample Upon receipt of the return and the paint sample, a new part will be painted to match the sample, and the part will be delivered to you ReveMoto's high quality paint product is guaranteed for life. Our paint is designed to last as long as your car does: under normal conditions, our paint should never show any peeling, fading, or cracking. If you notice any problems with your paint, simply contact us at sales@revemoto.com to arrange for a new painted part under our lifetime paint warranty. Have questions about our paint, paint processes, returns, or lifetime paint guarantee? Simply contact us at sales@revemoto.com. We're happy to answer questions!

In the last decades, the aftermarket industry has experienced an enormous boom and car owners are galvanizing more and more towards quality aftermarket parts for their vehicles. One prominent reason for this growth is the constant influx of high-quality aftermarket auto parts. This makes repairing or replacing certain parts so much easier.  Using aftermarket parts to replace or repair damaged car parts will help extend the lifespan of your car and boost its resale value. Yet, some people are still skeptical of aftermarket parts. So. let’s take a closer look at aftermarket parts and the changes they underwent throughout the years. The history of the aftermarket industry It is common knowledge that a couple of decades ago OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts were the only parts for vehicle repair. It is also popularly known that OEM parts were almost never available or prohibitively pricey. As sourcing for OEM parts became a hurdle and too big for most budgets, the aftermarket parts industry was created. In its infancy, the aftermarket parts industry was known for producing notably low-quality parts, however, during the years, the industry has made enormous strides and has significantly improved the quality of its parts. Unfortunately, some still are reluctant to use aftermarket parts due to its former reputation. However, with the new developments and technological advancements in the automotive parts industry the quality of aftermarket parts has increased tremendously - sometimes even matching the quality of OEM parts. Today, there exist a plethora of options in aftermarket parts - mostly manufactured in Taiwan. Using aftermarket parts to replace or repair damaged car parts will help extend the lifespan of your car and boost its resale value. No one is going to pay top dollar for a vehicle with damage parts. Yet, some people are still skeptical of aftermarket parts. So, let’s take a closer look at aftermarket parts and the changes they underwent throughout the years.  The different types of aftermarket parts Regardless of the brand, age or manufacturer, as a car owner, you always want the best replacement parts. But replacement parts differ. The most known is the original equipment manufacturer parts (OEM) and aftermarket replacement parts. OEM parts In the past, car manufactures would create all their parts, but in our ever-connected world most parts are outsourced. OEM parts are made a third-party company to manufacture auto parts in contract to sell ONLY through a car dealership such as Toyota, Honda, Ford, etc. OEM parts will have their respective badging on their part. Whereas aftermarket parts do not pay for the right to make parts with a company’s logo, like the Chevy bowtie or the Toyota ovals. OEM car parts are aftermarket car parts Some car owners adamantly purchase only OEM parts for their many advantages such as:   Easy to Purchase: The parts are readily available at the dealership and purchasing OEM means you’re purchasing piece of mind. This means that you won't have to assess the quality of different brands and prices. Greater assurance of quality: One thing is for sure; an OEM part will work exactly like the one you are replacing, because it is a replica of OE (original equipment) part the vehicle was manufactured with. Peace of mind: If you are a car enthusiast or own a special edition vehicle, you will generally tend to by OEM parts to keep your vehicle closer to its original condition. This may help with resale value but for most of us with regular cars, our car depreciates as soon as we drive it off the lot. The price may not justify the peace of mind. For example, Mopar is an independent auto parts company owned by GMC that only sells to licensed car dealerships. Denso is a Japanese company that makes safety and electrical parts to be installed in vehicles on the assembly line. Because of their many advantages, OEM parts rank highest among auto repair and replacement parts. However, OEM parts also have some disadvantages such as: They are more expensive: according to the Property Casualty Insurers Association of America (PCI), OEM parts will usually cost at least 60 percent more than aftermarket parts. Are only sold by dealerships: Dealers are limited! Which makes purchasing OEM parts quite stressful at times. Your local mechanic can order OEM parts for you, but it may take longer for your vehicle to get repaired. Even though the internet provided the possibility to purchase OEM parts through online merchants, repairs of your car will still take time as these orders will need to be delivered to your mechanic first. Quality vs Price: Many years ago, OEM parts, were vastly better than aftermarket parts. Topically that guarantee does not exist anymore as some aftermarket parts are equal to OEM parts. So, you might be paying extra just for the brand name.   CAPA certified & Regular aftermarket parts These are more affordable than OEM parts and are made by a 3rd party manufacturer. There is an important distinction between the two. The difference between CAPA is the manufacturers strictly adhere to the independent Certified Automotive Parts Association (CAPA) requirements during the manufacturing process. We’ll get into more detail on CAPA parts further down the article. Regular aftermarket parts do not have adhere to the same process. Both CAPA and regular aftermarket parts are made by the same facilities. It’s safe to say they are both made using the same processes. Aftermarket & CAPA parts are usually available from independent shops and typically offer more options as well. Just like OEM parts, CAPA parts also have some major benefits:   Less expensive: Aftermarket parts are commonly more affordable than OEM parts. Usually 10-30 percent more than aftermarket parts. Quality is equal to OEM auto parts: CAPA parts are using advanced technology to create their products. Which means that in some cases, you may end up with the same quality part that you started with. Wide variety: There are numerous companies that manufacture aftermarket CAPA parts. A wider variety means greater selection and competitive pricing. Better availability: Unlike OEM, aftermarket parts are sold in any auto parts store or local collision shop. This gives you more options on where to take your car for service.   But aftermarket parts are not without their cons. Some of the disadvantages that can come with aftermarket parts are:   Quality varies: Even though most aftermarket companies produce high-quality parts, there are some factories that use less materials. Also, the quantity in which they are made may affect some batches of parts. It is, therefore, best to only purchase from trusted sources. Very wide selection: Since so many companies produce aftermarket parts, the chance of you picking a part that is of lower quality becomes greater. Aftermarket parts are comparable to the OEM parts but occasionally there will be some bad parts out there. Consult your mechanic for advice if you are not familiar with aftermarket parts. Warranty varies by distributor: Usually, aftermarket parts come with their own warranty, but it will only cover the quality of the part which may be void if you already painted the part. It varies for every resale company. This can also be the case with an OEM part.   Regulations and certifications for aftermarket parts As we mentioned before, most aftermarket parts are made in Taiwan - which means that they are not manufactured by the vehicle manufacturer (or a subcontractor on behalf of that company) that made the parts on your original vehicle—the OE parts. These companies in Taiwan make parts designed to function the same with the correct fitment and durability as the original parts. Still, it remains important to inquire about the quality of the parts. For this reason, Federal administrations, like the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) have safety regulations for many aftermarket car parts, and states are free to create additional regulations. Another important note, these 3rd party manufactures pay car companies for the rights to manufacture their parts. Companies such as Ford, GMC, Honda, Toyota, etc., all set forth standards to which these manufactures must abide by to sell the likeness of their part. When it comes to aftermarket parts, most retail distributors obtain the auto body part from the same manufactures overseas. You are essentially buying the same parts from the same original manufactures. "CAPA" certified. Certified Automobile Parts Association (CAPA) has set high standards and created guidelines for aftermarket parts. CAPA tests the quality of materials, production, and integrity of the parts. In order to receive a CAPA certification, the result of the testing must conclude that the parts are functionally equivalent to OEM parts as OEM is the standard that some insurance companies use to evaluate replacement parts. CAPA requires that a manufacture follow strict guidelines regarding the facility, equipment, materials and the process in which the parts are made. Each CAPA certified parts is labeled with a distinguishable hologram sticker and its own serial number. Manufactures who sell CAPA parts must submit parts for approval and after approval are subject to random screenings by CAPA. General aftermarket parts do not undergo the same CAPA testing certifications and are generally more affordable than OEM and CAPA certified parts. All aftermarket parts are evaluated for their functionality and quality. General aftermarket parts are the least desired consumers due to their misconceptions. When aftermarket parts first became available, yes, the quality was not good. Things have certainly changed in the past decade and aftermarket parts are now indistinguishable from OEM auto parts.  Insurance companies only use aftermarket parts for repairs due to the pricing compared to OEM parts. Collision shop will also use aftermarket parts to minimize their spending and maximize their profits.   Conclusion Aftermarket parts have been a great help to most car owners over the past decades. Due to its less than favorable quality parts in its infancy years, many people still have misconceptions - even though the aftermarket parts industry has undergone a complete metamorphosis and now offer great quality parts that are comparable to OEM parts. Aftermarket auto body parts are more popular than they have ever been. It is the most commonly used product by consumers and collision repair specialists. Aftermarket parts save consumers and body shops money on the cost of repairs, and in the end, it saves insurance companies money which makes aftermarket parts the best option in many cases. Written by, Stefany Land

Got a scuffed bumper or cracked mirror? Skip the costly body shop visit; there’s a smarter way to repair your car. With ReveMoto’s pre-painted, color-matched auto parts, you can order online, skip the paint booth, and get your car looking brand new again in no time.

Have you ever felt tempted to draw a happy face and write “wash me” on someone’s heavily soiled car? But halt to the thought of, what is it covered in? Where has it even been? Or, has it ever been washed? In fact, not everyone washes their car as often as they should. Routine car washes, waxes, and hygiene maintenance are more essential than you think. Not only can it be eye sore but daily contaminants will damage your cars painted exterior over time.   The BasicsGenerally, auto professionals recommend washing your vehicle every two weeks or so. That may seem like a bit much but if you regularly wash, it’s most likely a quick rinse more than anything. Washing a clean car is faster and easier than a filthy one. Other factors to consider are your geographic location, the weather/climate, city driving vs rural areas, and lastly if the vehicle is garage kept.  According to a survey on The Telegraph, 31% of 1100 adults polled have never washed their own car and only 12% of those who had, did it regularly. Washing and waxing your vehicle routinely is important because our car’s exterior deals with many environmental factors. Contaminants such as bird droppings, tree sap, pollutants, dust, grime, pollen, dead bug splats, and salt can adhere to your vehicle and can wreak havoc on your cars paint job. If you think the rain will wash your cars grime away, think again! The accumulation of dirt and acid rain on your paint job is just as bad. Another good reason to keeping your car clean through regular washes is to avoid the spread of harmful germs. You take your car to many public places and all those contaminants can get on and in your car’s interior. Most importantly, regular washes will prevent you from having to spend lots of money fixing your exterior paint coat.   When to Wash your CarWe’ve established the importance of car washes and suggested number of times to wash your car; every 2 weeks. Of course, not everyone can or should have to follow this recommendation. This also depends on what kind of environment you mostly drive in and how often you take your car out of the garage. If you drive in an area with great exposure to the elements, then you will need to wash your vehicle more frequently, perhaps, weekly. This is generally for folks that use their vehicle for off-road, or even heavy city driving. The area and time of season also play a factor. Heavy rain, areas with a lot of snow fall, extremely hot regions, will all need proper washing and protective coating. On the other hand, if you only drive your car occasionally or in a small radius, you could probably stretch out the recommended 2 weeks into maybe once a month. If your vehicle is garage kept it gets even better, quick rinses will do the trick or whenever you see accumulation of dirt.   Proper Washing TechniquesWe’re not going to get into a detailed step by step process on how to wash your car or the right material and liquids to use. There is a preferred “two-bucket” system as well as other tip, tricks, does and don’ts. There are too many too list, so we’ll be brief and concise. Instead we’re going to opt of a very generic and standard approach. The most basic of tools you need are as follows. A bucket (make sure its clean and free of debris) Clean water (preferably soft water, contains less calcium and magnesium) A car wash mitt, brush, towel, foam cannon. (we recommend the mitt) Car wash soap (do not use dishwasher or any other kind of soap) A water hose or spray gun to wash off the soapy water. A microfiber towel or shammy Clay Bar/Mitt and, or Car Wax   The process is simple, so simple you already know how to do this. It’s important to make sure there is no dirt or debris in the water, bucket or on the car wash mitt. Have small rocks or debris will further complicate your wash by making small scratches on the painted surface. When you apply the soapy water, make sure that you have lots of foam bubbles upon application. Be sure to wash every nook and cranny. If you are cleaning your wheels, use a different wash mitt and water bucket. You will most definitely pick up debris from the rim and tire. Once the car is fully covered in soap, wash it off and dry your vehicle. We recommend using a damp microfiber towel. It will not only dry your car but also pickup dirt and debris. Whereas the shammy will drag the debris across the surface of your paint. In addition to regular washes, you may have to clay bar your vehicle. Sometimes debris/dirt will embed itself on the topcoat that a wash will not remove. The clay bar is very tacky and will pull the dirt out exposing pours where the dirt once was.  Waxing your car is another crucial step to protecting your vehicle’s exterior. It is the process of applying a thin layer of protectant on your car’s surface exterior to protect its clear coat from the world’s damaging elements. It is applied by hand or by using a polisher after the car has been thoroughly washed and dried. The wax fills in the micro scratches and gaps strengthening the clear coat and provides a nice shiny finish. Professionals recommend waxing your car 3 to 4 times a year and always after your clay bar your vehicle.   Final ThoughtsAs you can see, car washes and waxing are just as important as any other type of vehicle maintenance you do routinely. If neglected, your cars exterior will begin to fade, peel and even rust. The only remedy for restoring your natural shine can be through expensive auto detailing or as a last resort, repainting the vehicle. Besides keeping your vehicle’s exterior at its best condition, it could prevent you from having to pay hundreds to thousands in the long run. Therefore, making it a habit of adding a car wash and occasional clay bar/wax to your repertoire is well worth it.

Have you ever looked at your car and find imperfections on its surface? Whether they are rock chips, swirl marks, fine streaks, or deep scratches in the clear coat, they can make your car look dull and lifeless. Fortunately, these flaws can be fixed with paint correction on any painted auto body part. What is Paint Correction? Paint correction is a tedious process of removing the imperfections in a vehicle’s finish to restore and rejuvenate the paintwork. To better understand what paint correction is, we will briefly go through the different types of damage or flaws that would require restoration of the paint. This process not just merely covers up the spots and blotches, it should properly eliminate them bringing your car’s finish back to the state that show only true reflections under direct sunlight. For those with newer cars won’t have to worry about paint correction at all. The most affected people are those who have had their vehicle for several years or who buy used cars. For most people simple car wash and claying will do the trick. For the unlucky few, wet-sanding and buffing will be our only option. If you have scratches, rock chips, dirt in the clear coat (if you painted or have had your car recently painted) or you just want that beautiful mirror-finish for your car then the latter steps are for you. The Paint Correction Process The process of paint correction is very detailed, extensive, and labor intensive. It consists of 4 major steps: washing and decontaminating the vehicle, wet-sanding or leveling, buffing and polishing, and sealing and waxing. Everyone has washed their car, but the rest of the steps can be tedious and require some level of experience. Once you get into wet-sanding and beyond there is a lot of other methods and techniques that are not common to the everyday person. We’ll try and cover these steps briefly without getting too technical.                 Washing and decontaminating- this important and practical first, step removes any loose dirt and debris on the car’s exterior. The next step is to clay bar the painted exterior to safely remove any surface contaminants that are firmly bonded to the vehicle. It is not essential to use a clay bar, but if you have large embedded debris or your car feels rough after a wash; it’s the next step in the process. For all the DIY folks out there, a clay bar is a non-abrasive method to remove dirt and is generally regarded as safe method. It’s often better to avoid having any dirt sitting on the surface of the car paint before moving to the following steps. Not cleaning the car’s surface will result in causing further damage to the its painted exterior. You do not want to polish dirt and contaminants, you want them removed. You may be neglecting your wonderful car. Check out our article on washing your car for more information. Sealing and waxing; this step will be split up into parts. For most you out there, you’ll only need to wash, clay bar and wax your car. After washing and clay bar step, lastly, a layer of sealant is applied to cover up the vehicle’s paint to protect it from further harm. In addition, it adds a superior gloss to the color of your vehicle. When applied, please allow the wax 5-10 minutes to settle over the paint. There are many types of wax and sealants, but the main difference is that sealants are synthetic, and waxes are derived from the carnauba tree. Waxes will fill in any microscopic pours in your painted surface and provide a warm or enhanced tone to your vehicle. For most us, this where our work will end. For those who have more to deal with and are not afraid putting in more work; buffing is our next step. Wet-sanding or leveling is the first part of the buffing process. this step is to remove fine scratches, dirt, imbedded debris and blemishes in the exterior clear coat. If you take great care of your vehicle or have a newer car then you could stick with the steps; washing to waxing. For the rest of us who have older cars or have had our car repainted, you’re in the right place. There is some dirt and debris that cannot be removed by a clay bar and that’s when you may want to wet-sand the dirt or debris. Its very important to note that wet-sanding is an abrasive method that will cut your clear coat removing very thin micro-layers of clear coat every time you wet-sand a painted surface. This should be no surprise to most, but wet sanding requires water and lots of it. You should never dry sand your car because it would be too harsh of a cut on the clear coat and require more work buffing the scratches out. Wet sanding- will remove any type of dirt and, or level any type of imperfection in the clear coat. There are many grades of wet-sanding paper, but for removing dirt or debris we do not recommend going lower than 2000 grit sand paper. The lower the sand paper the more abrasive it is, the higher the grade the less abrasive it is. We use sand paper between 1000-5000 grit but very seldom anything under 2000. With the lower sand papers, you will be cutting or leveling the clear coat very harsh. Sandpaper grit at 1000 and 1500 should only be used experienced auto detailer and only on extremely dirty or difficult panels, when needed. For the rest of us, 2000 grit will do the trick. You can also stop at 2000 grit and buff the sanding marks away, but it will be a lot easier on you if you go higher in sand paper grit. If you start at 2000 you would follow that with 2500 and finish off at 3000 or 5000. The last two grades of sand paper are not usually needed unless you are working on dark colored panels/car. Black is the hardest color and white being the easiest color to wet sand and buff. When you wet sand, you want to let the paper do the work and not put too much pressure on the affected area. You don’t want to cut the clear coat too much or you will leave small scratches on the clear coat even after you buff. Let the paper do the job and just gently rub the dirt or debris away. Use your judgment and those eagle eyes to catch any micro scratches on the panel you are wet-sanding. When you see small scratches, it will help to go to the higher sand paper and it will also be less work for your buffer. There are two methods when wet sanding, crosshatch and circular sanding. The circular method is generally used for small isolated sanding and crosshatch is intersecting parallel lines (think an “X”) used for larger areas. When you wet sand, it is important to stay within the same area of sanding resulting in a solid white or foggy look. No spaces in between or small trails outside of the sanded area. You will thank me later. Buffing and polishing- The previous step involved cutting the clear coat to eliminate any imperfections and leveling the out the clear coat. This process includes different grades of polish used from heavier to finer compounds to remove surface materials and marks, ultimately refining the finish. The materials used are often labeled in sequential steps from 1 to 3. This includes the pads that need to be used to the types of compounds. The main difference between buffing and polishing, is that buffing takes out the wet sanding you previously did, and the polishing will remove and micro scratches, haziness caused by buffing. This is usually done with finer, softer pads and different polishing compounds different from the initial buffing pads and cutting compounds.  The materials used are as follows. Buffer – Rotary, Fixed Orbital, Dual Action Forced Rotation, Dual Action Random Orbital Liquid Products – Waxing agents vary but there are specific to each step. 1,2,3 Pads – Foam pads are best per step. Avoid the wool pad unless you are skilled at buffing. Wetting Agents- You can buy specific wetting agents but water with a little bit of soap is all that’s needed. Micro-fiber towel- Any will do. You do not want to wipe your finish with anything to abrasive causing more harm. We most recommend using only the foam pads for all steps, they are less abrasive compared to a wool pad. Outside temperatures and the temperature of the painted panel will affect how you buff. Steel panels will withstand much higher degrees of heat where plastic auto parts will have a lower threshold to heat. Let’s say it’s 100 degrees outside, you may have to apply more compound and wait longer between buffing/polishing. It’s also very important that you continuously are moving the buffer and do not let sit idle. These buffers can spin up 500 rotations a second which generate a lot of heat themselves. Colder temperatures are of course, more forgiving. Use your judgement, the last thing you want to do is burn through the paint coat and having to pay for a new paint job. Sealing and waxing- (part 2) after all the correction work, lastly, a layer of sealant is applied to cover up the vehicle’s paint to protect it from further scratches. This process is the same as we previously mentioned, waxing the exterior. We are going to diverge into ceramic coating, which is very different than waxing. Ceramic coating is synthetic material that is more durable and last longer than wax. Ceramic coating creates a semi-permanent bond over the paint adding more protection and shine over your paint coat. Ceramic coating is one of the best options, which also means it’s the more expensive option. No matter which decision you choose, it’s always best to protect your car’s exterior after buffing or polishing the painted car or auto part. Paint correction is the process of eliminating scratches and imperfections on a vehicle’s exterior paint work. Paint correction can be a lengthy and costly procedure. A trip to a professional detailer, depending on the corrections needed, the size of your vehicle and color (black is the hardest), it could cost up to $600 or more. Thus, maintaining your vehicle in great condition is valuable. Washing your car properly and routinely will prolong the life of your automotive paint. To avoid a complete reconditioning of your automotive paint, use non-abrasive materials when washing and drying your car. It’s a multi-step process that completely corrects a vehicle’s surface appearance resulting in no swirl marks, scratches, or blemishes when viewed to the naked eye. Remember, whether it’s you doing the hard work or paying a professional to buff your car, make sure you follow the correct steps to keep the life of your automotive paint looking amazing.

What is automotive clear coat? Is a clear plastic resin that protects your cars paint job and panel panels from rust and  paint oxidization. We'll run down the process on how panel gets painted and why the clear coat is extremely important.

So, you just finished doing your weekly grocery shopping, yay! Feeling as productive and lucky as ever, you walk back to your car feeling like a champion just to find a deep, yawning scratch on your bumper. Suddenly, you feel this heat in your head, your blood boiling, and the desperate feeling of, “What now!?” Thinking, “This is going to cost a fortune!”, “Should I contact my insurance?”, “What if I can’t fix it myself?” When something unfortunate happens to your car, the first thing that pops into your head will most likely be to contact your insurance company. After all, it is quite an expense that we pay in case something happens to our vehicle. However, is it wise to initiate a claim? Or, should you just take it to a professional? Perhaps, maybe DIY? Here is some information for you to consider when deciding what to do with any type of damage to your vehicle. Should I contact my insurance company? Do not file an insurance claim right away. Not all car scratches are created equal. There are so many variables that come into play, depending on your auto policy and the cause of the scratch. Damage caused by different factors are covered differently. Comprehensive Scratches – Generally a damage NOT caused by collision. Frequently seen as a non-fault claim because of an unpreventable damage (e.g. vandalism, falling objects, theft, etc.)                                    (Image Source: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-566327/The-street-vandals-scratched-single-parked-car-caused-250-000-worth-damage.html) Collision Scratches – Typically a damage caused by hitting another object. (e.g. another vehicle, guardrail, tree, etc.)                                    Not sure how your car got scratched? – Contact your auto insurance carrier and speak with a claim adjuster. He or she will be able to identify the cause of the scratch then determine what type of claim you should file. Furthermore, the location of the scratch could affect the price. If the scratch is on a removable part, it’s probably more affordable to replace it. But if it’s located on the frame, roof, rear quarter panel, or door, a large area must be painted to cover the scratch and blend in the new paint. (Image Source: http://driving.ca/auto-news/news/hit-a-car-and-thinking-of-running-shame-on-you) Sometimes, you are better off fixing the scratch and not filing a claim. Checking your insurance policy first is the best way to decide if a claim is to your advantage. Here is some additional information to consider when deciding whether you should file a claim on your insurance: Ineligibility for renewal: Some insurance companies may not renew your policy if you have had more than two claims in 3 years. Hence, paying for your own repairs costing under $1,000 is often worthwhile to prevent the possibility of no coverage in the future ( CNN Money - Car Insurance: Things to Know). Deductible costs: A “deductible” is the out-of-pocket portion you must pay before your insurance pays for a claim. The national average of vehicle insurance deductible is $500. If the cost of your deductible is higher than the cost to fix your car damages, it is better to pay for the damages upfront instead of filing a claim with your insurance provider. For instance, you verified that your policy covers Comprehension Damage and you decide to file a claim. You take your vehicle to a body shop for a free estimate and realize the total cost for repair is $1500. You will have to pay the $500 deductible to your insurance provider for them to take care of your $1500 damages. Monthly premium increase: Insurance companies usually have two onsets when insurers file a claim. If the damage is less than $1,800, your rate may not go up. However, if the cost of repairs is between $1,800-$2,800, your rate may increase. For most insurance companies, the magic number is $2,800 or more. If your damage cost is more expensive than that number, your premium will rise significantly. (How Much Does Insurance Go up after an Accident?) Ineligibility for discounts: There are about 20 types of discounts you could be receiving on your auto insurance, saving you quite a bit of money! However, filing a claim could cost you from taking advantage of those enticing money savers. Now that we have an idea on how an insurance claim works and if you decide it’s to your advantage to file it, you have the option to have the claim check made to your name so you could spend it toward your repair or replacement costs. If filing a claim is not to your advantage, the next step is to determine the best course of action to repairing your car depending on the severity of the damages.   Is the scratch fixable? Your car’s paint is more important than just for looks, it protects the exterior from corrosion and rust. Therefore, it’s important to try and mend the scratch as soon as possible since it may worsen over time causing additional, costly problems. If it is a minor, superficial abrasion, you can try these DIY steps. Generally, the depth of the scratch will determine whether it’s a repair you can do yourself, or if it will require an automotive professional. A great way to see if a scratch is repairable, is by performing a test using your fingernail! That’s right, if your fingernail can fit in the scratch, you can possibly touch it up yourself or by a paint tech who is experienced in automotive touch up paint. But, if the scratch is too deep (usually cutting into the metal or plastic of the car part), the only proper way to fix the damage is to repair and repaint the area. If the scratch is somewhere in-between, not too deep, it can probably be buffed out by a professional, which will cost much less than repairing the area. A good way to check if the scratch is repairable, is to see if your fingernail cannot fit in the damage area. Car part painting costs could range from $300 to $7,500! Here is more information about car paint jobs.   What if the scratch requires repair work by a professional? If your scratch is beyond DIY repair, you will want to get an estimate on the cost to repair the damages by an automotive professional. Often, it is more cost effective to replace the entire car part rather than getting it repaired and repainted due to the number of labor hours a shop will allocate to get your job done. Therefore, you’ll want to get an estimate before deciding whether it’s best to repair or replace your part. If you decide to replace the car part, here are some choices for you to consider: Dealership Dealerships are usually the standard when it comes to any kind of car repair. They will do a great job to make certain your vehicle is back to its original state. Dealerships provide Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) car parts which may give you greater assurance. Your car may even be under warranty depending on date of purchase or if you have an extended warranty. It’s a great option for high quality repairs. You’ll get the best paint products, the best high-tech equipment and practices. Dealerships usually employ highly skilled and experienced mechanics and technicians making it a worry free option when it comes to repairs. Dealerships spare no expense when it comes to their quality. Reputation is key in any industry and dealership know this better than anyone. If there are any issues with any type of work, the dealership will right its wrongs. Body Shop This option has the most variety. Body shops are the most common form or practice for any car repair. There are specialty shops that specialize in show room vehicles from luxury vehicles to economy cars. There are great mom and pop shops that have a great reputation not only with the community but also partner with insurance companies to handle their repairs. Just like any industry, you’ll awesome shops and terrible shops. Beware of shops that cut corners and do very low skilled repairs. You should always do your due diligence when choosing a body shop. There are many ways to cut corners when it comes to repairs but everything depends on “how” the repairs were made or the correct steps in repairing damages. Body shops out number dealerships, so they will have different methods and equipment that get the job done. It all depends on the quality and experience of the body shop technicians. There are many right ways to fix damages and twice as many ways to do it wrong. In the eyes of an insurance company, a repair is repair, plain and simple. Insurance companies cannot dictate to their customers on where to service their vehicle, it’s illegal! Insurance companies will pay the proper dollar amount for repairs but it’s up to the shop you choose to execute those repairs the proper way. Body shop will differ based on the experience of their technicians and staff, so make sure to choose a reputable one! Painted Auto Body Part Stores There is an ever-growing number of pre-painted auto body part stores online. Make sure to choose a reputable one that provides auto parts that meet the same standards of the original (OEM) parts. There are many companies that manufacture aftermarket car parts for all the major automobile brands but not all manufactures are created equal. While you are generally safe in purchasing aftermarket parts today, some companies put a lot more time and care into their process while others cut corners. Pay attention to certifications such as ISO-9001 and CAPA. All parts meeting those two standards are generally sold in the USA and Canada and are used by body shops and insurance companies nationwide. It is important for a reliable online painted parts shop to offer color matching to ensure that your painted replacement car part corresponds with your vehicle. High quality paint plays an important role when purchasing a pre-painted car part! The quality of the paint will not only determine perfect color matching, it will also guarantee durability of the coat that protects your auto body part.  Always do your due diligence when purchasing anything on the internet. Don’t be afraid to ask about each online store’s paint process, quality of paint, and if they offer any guarantees and warranties

Whether you're ordering painted replacement parts or touch up paint, paint matching is essential. Choose the wrong color paint, and you could have a new part or painted area that sticks out like a sore thumb. But finding your vehicle's paint code can sometimes be tricky. In our guide, you'll find out where to look for your car's paint code, as well as the paint code format your vehicle make typically follows. This makes it easy to order accurately painted replacement parts and touch up paint knowing you've found the right shade. Why it's Important to Find Your Car's Paint Code It's never a good idea to simply guess the color of your car. A red car isn't just red. It's fire engine red, brick red, or even a candy paint red. That's why choosing "red" for your touch up paint just isn't going to cut it. With even a slightly different shade, you'll be able to plainly see the difference as soon as it's applied, and the poor matching job on your paint touch up may look worse than what you're trying to cover up in the first place. Locating Your Car's Paint Code Unlike information like your vehicle's VIN or tire pressure settings, there's no single predictable location to find your vehicle's paint code. Each manufacturer may do something different than the others, and it may not even be the same for each model. This means you may need to look in a few different places before you can successfully find your car's paint code. Try these spots first: Driver door sticker: Often, you can find your paint code right where you find your tire pressure settings. This is the most common location for paint codes, so be sure to try it first. Another place to look on the driver's side door is in the hinge area, or in the passenger door, sometimes on the pillar. Makes that may use this location:: Acura, Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, Honda, Hummer, Hyundai, Infiniti, Isuzu, Jeep, Kia, Lexus, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercedez Benz, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Subaru, Suzuki, Toyota, Volvo Under the hood: Some will place the code above the strut towers, fender edges, or frame rail, or along the engine wall or fire wall just between the engine compartment and the interior. Others will have a sticker on top of hood deck lid or front of the radiator support. Makes that may use this location:: BMW, Chrysler, Dodge, Hyundai, Infiniti, Isuzu, Jeep, Mazda, Mercedez Benz, Mini, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Suzuki, Volvo Inside the trunk: The sticker may be under the deck lid, inside the rear compartment, spare tire cover, or even on the wheel housing. Makes that may use this location:: Acura, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Volkswagen In the glove box or middle console: Check inside the glove box or middle console, either on the door or inside the interior of the box, removing items if necessary. Makes that may use this location:: Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC, Hummer, Isuzu, Suzuki Inside the wheel well: Look inside all wheel wells for a sticker. Some use the front passenger, others the rear driver's side, so it's best to check all of them. Makes that may use this location:: Buick, Cadillac On the floor: This one's tricky, but you can check on the floor behind the back passenger's seat or under the front seats. Makes that may use this location:: Chevrolet, Chrysler, GMC What You're Looking For Will you know your paint code if you've found it? Typically, you're looking for a white or silver paper sticker. Just like locations, the paint code format for many vehicles is significantly different. Most related manufacturers, such as the General Motors group including Cadillac, Chevrolet, and GMC, will use the same format, which can make it easier to identify them. Paint code formats for selected models: Acura: NH-XXXX Audi: May be 2-4 numbers long and can include letters BMW: Three numbers Buick: Starts with WA, BC/CC, or U, may be prefaced by a three digit number and letter combination Cadillac: Starts with WA, BC/CC, or U, may be prefaced by a three digit number and letter combination Chevrolet: Starts with WA, BC/CC, or U, may be prefaced by a three digit number and letter combination Chrysler: Starts with P, Q, G, or T, 3 digits with letters and numbers. May be prefaced by PNT. Dodge: Starts with P, Q, G, or T, 3 digits with letters and numbers. May be prefaced by PNT. Ford: Two digits with numbers and/or letters GMC: Starts with WA, BC/CC, or U, may be prefaced by a three digit number and letter combination Honda: NHXXXX or YRXXXXX Hummer: Starts with WA, BC/CC, or U, may be prefaced by a three digit number and letter combination Hyundai: Two digits with numbers and/or letters Infiniti: Three digits with numbers and/or letters, may be fourth digit after a space Isuzu: Three digits with numbers Jeep: Starts with P, Q, G, or T, 3 digits with letters and numbers. May be prefaced by PNT. Older Jeeps may be two digits long. Kia: Two digits with numbers and/or letters Lexus: Three digits with numbers and/or letters, usually prefaced by CTR Lincoln: Two digits with numbers and/or letters Mazda: Two or three digits with numbers and/or letters Mercedez Benz: DB-XXX Mini: Three digits with numbers and/or letters Mitsubishi: NH-XXXX Nissan: Three digits with numbers and/or letters Subaru: Three digits with numbers and/or letters Suzuki: Three digits with numbers and/or letters Toyota: Three digits with numbers and/or letters, usually prefaced by CTR Volkswagen: Two to four digits with numbers and/or letters If You Can't Find Your Paint Code Even if you know where to look and what you're looking for, it's not always easy to locate your car's paint code. But you do have options. First, check your owner's manual. Some manufacturers will explain in your manual where you can find the paint code. If that doesn't work, use your VIN. Your VIN is easy to find, located in the dash. If you write down this number, you can call a local dealership to ask them to find your color code based on the VIN. Finding your car's paint code is sometimes tricky, but it's always worth it to get an exact match. With the right paint code, you'll have the perfect match for your painted replacement part or touch up paint.