ReveMoto how-to Blogs

Removing the front fender on a Lexus LC500 requires accessing bolts along the top, side, and behind the side skirt. This guide follows the exact process shown in the video and walks through each fastener location in order. Before starting, the front bumper and headlight must already be removed, as the fender cannot be accessed properly without removing those components first. Tools Needed Panel removal tool or flathead screwdriver 10mm socket Extension Ratchet (power or handheld) Phillips screwdriver Flat tool Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Remove Upper Plastic Cover Remove the upper plastic cover by prying out the plastic push pins. Once all push pins are removed, lift the cover off. Step 2: Remove Top Fender Bolts Remove the four 10mm bolts located along the top of the fender using a 10mm socket with an extension and ratchet. Step 3: Remove Side Fender Bolts Remove the 10mm bolts located along the side of the fender. Step 4: Remove Side Push Pins Remove the plastic push pins along the side and underneath the fender area using a flathead screwdriver. Step 5: Remove Lower Fender Clip and Bolt Remove the lower clip and the additional bolt located near the bottom of the fender liner area. Step 6: Remove Door Area Plastic Covers Open the door and pry off the plastic covers located inside the door area using a flat tool. Step 7: Remove Door Area Screws Remove the screws located behind the plastic covers inside the door area using a Phillips screwdriver. Step 8: Pull Back Side Skirt and Remove Hidden Bolts Gently pull back the side skirt by releasing the clips to create access. Press down slightly as needed and remove the bolts located behind the side skirt using a handheld ratchet. Step 9: Remove Fender-Side Screws Pull down the plastic cover near the door area and remove the remaining screws on the fender side. Step 10: Remove the Fender After all bolts and fasteners are removed, pull the fender outward to detach it from the vehicle. Need a Replacement Fender? If you are replacing a damaged fender, pre-painted Lexus LC500 front fenders are available and ready to install. Shop Lexus LC500 Painted Fender DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

If you're looking to replace a damaged rear bumper or simply refresh the look of your Chevrolet Camaro, this step-by-step guide will walk you through how to remove and install the rear bumper cover on a 2010–2013 Chevy Camaro. Whether you're tackling a collision repair, upgrading to aftermarket body parts, or swapping in a freshly painted bumper, we’ve got you covered with clear instructions, helpful tips, and the tools you’ll need to get it done right. Tools Needed: Flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool Torx bit set (T15 or T20) 7mm socket 10mm socket and ratchet Rivet gun (if replacing the bumper bracket) Drill (to remove factory rivets, if applicable) Magnetic socket (recommended for taillight nuts) Heat gun or hair dryer (for removing adhesive trim pieces) Zip-lock bags or containers (for organizing hardware) 🚗 Replace your 2010–2013 Chevy Camaro rear bumper with a pre-painted one! Shop Pre-Painted Rear Bumper for 2010–2013 Chevy Camaro Step by Step Instructions: Begin by opening the trunk to access the bumper cover from the top. This will expose the fasteners along the upper edge of the bumper cover near the trunk opening. Locate and remove the six plastic clips positioned near the trunk opening—three on each side. Use a flathead screwdriver or a trim removal tool to pry them up carefully. Next, remove the small triangular trim piece on each side of the trunk opening, which covers the edge of the bumper cover. These typically pop off with gentle pressure. Keep all clips and trim pieces stored safely for reinstallation. Tip: Use a small container or a zip-lock bag to label and store your hardware. Turn the front wheels outward to give yourself better access to the rear wheel wells. This will make it easier to reach the screws securing the inner edges of the bumper cover. Using a Torx bit (usually T15 or T20), remove the three screws inside each rear wheel well. These screws secure the bumper to the inner fender liner and must be removed on both sides. Tip: Keep these screws separate from the top clips to avoid confusion later. Gently pull the corner of the bumper outward to release it from the clips behind the rear wheels. Apply steady, even pressure to avoid cracking the bumper or snapping any mounting tabs. Carefully release the two clips located near each taillight by pulling the bumper outward and upward, and then unclip the additional fasteners near the trunk latch along the center upper edge of the bumper. These clips help secure the bumper to the body at the upper sides and top center area. Work from one side to the other, gently loosening each clip to keep the bumper from flexing unevenly. Disconnect the wiring harnesses connected to the bumper components, including reverse lights, side marker lights, and parking sensors if equipped. Use caution when unplugging connectors to avoid breaking any tabs. Tip: If connectors are tight, use a small pick tool to gently lift the locking tab while pulling the connector apart. Remove the bulbs from the light housings before fully separating the bumper from the vehicle. Twist and pull each bulb socket from the reverse lights and side markers to detach them. This prevents damage to the bulbs and gives you a cleaner disassembly. Remove the bezels from the bumper by pressing the tabs on the inside and gently pushing them outward. These bezels typically surround the reverse lights or trim openings and can be released with light pressure. Tip: Use a trim tool or flathead screwdriver carefully to assist with stubborn clips. Remove the reverse lights from the bumper by taking out the three 7mm bolts on each side and sliding the lights out. Make sure to remove them all and store the bolts and lights safely until they are transferred to the new bumper. Remove the side marker lenses from the bumper by pushing the retaining clip and sliding each lens out through the front. This is typically done with firm, controlled pressure. Tip: If the clip is tight, use a small flathead screwdriver to help release it. Using a 10mm socket, remove the three nuts securing each tail light and carefully pull the tail light housings straight out. Once removed, place them on a soft surface to avoid scratching the lenses or damaging the wiring. Remove the four gold-colored fasteners securing the metal impact bar cover or reinforcement shield. These fasteners are located along the middle rear section, behind where the bumper sits. Use the appropriate socket or wrench to remove each one. Tip: Keep these in a separate container as they differ from the plastic trim clips and light hardware. If your vehicle has a lower valance or ground effects trim piece attached to the bumper, remove it by unfastening the clips or gently peeling away the double-sided tape. Tip: You can use automotive-grade double-sided tape (such as 3M) when reinstalling the valance later for a secure bond. Then, separate the lower valance from the bumper cover by working along the seam where it is attached. Tip: A heat gun or hair dryer can help soften the adhesive and make removal easier without damaging the plastic. Separate the parking sensors from their plastic mounting brackets by gently prying the clips loose. Use a small flathead screwdriver if needed. Tip: If your old bumper is cracked or damaged, inspect the sensor wires closely to ensure they weren’t pulled or torn loose during removal. This prepares the sensors for transfer to the new bumper. Install the parking sensors into the new bumper by snapping each one into its original bracket position. Make sure they are fully seated and aligned properly to function correctly. Reinstall the reverse lights, side markers, taillights, parking sensors, and lower valance (if applicable) onto the new bumper cover. Make sure all components are installed in the correct positions and securely clipped or bolted into place. Tip: If any lights or sensors are missing or damaged, source replacements before reinstallation to avoid incomplete functionality. Reconnect the wiring harnesses to the reverse lights, side markers, and parking sensors. Make sure each connector is fully seated and clicks into place. Tip: Double-check wire routing to ensure nothing gets pinched during bumper installation. Connect the lower valance to the upper bumper using double-sided tape and the built-in alignment tabs. Press it firmly along the seam to ensure a secure fit. Some models may also have clips to help hold it in place. Install the license plate light and any related trim pieces into the new bumper cover before mounting it to the car. These components snap into place from behind the bumper and should be fully seated before installation. Install the new rear bumper retainer (bracket) using a rivet gun. Align it with the mounting holes on the vehicle and secure it by installing the rivets. This should be done before installing the bumper, as the bracket helps support the bumper during final fitment. Reinstall the three Torx screws in each rear wheel well to secure the lower corners of the bumper. Use the same Torx bit and be careful not to overtighten the screws. Reinsert the upper plastic clips into the bumper cover along the trunk edge. These help secure the top portion of the bumper. Tip: The original long plastic trim piece that snaps over these clips may be missing—it’s meant to cover and finish this area for a cleaner look. Lift and install the bumper cover onto the rear of the vehicle. Use the taillight cutouts, tabs, and alignment guides to position it properly. Begin by aligning the center top section under the trunk edge, then press inward until the clips snap into place. Continue guiding and pressing the bumper along both sides until it sits flush. Tip: It helps to have an extra set of hands to support and stabilize the bumper during this step. Reconnect the taillight wiring harnesses by plugging each connector into the back of the taillight housing. Press firmly until the connectors click into place, ensuring a secure fit. This step must be completed before reinstalling the taillight housings. Tip: Gently tug on the connector after seating it to confirm it's locked in. Press along the sides of the bumper to fully seat the clips into place. Work from the rear corners forward, applying firm pressure where the bumper meets the body panel. You should hear or feel the clips snap in as they engage. Tip: Check both sides for consistent panel gaps to ensure a factory-fit finish. Reinstall the small triangular trim piece on each side of the trunk opening. Once both are snapped in, tighten the three 10mm nuts on each taillight to secure them. Do a final walkaround of your Camaro. Press along the bumper edges to ensure everything is clipped in securely. Test all lighting functions—taillights, reverse lights, and side markers—as well as your parking sensors if equipped. Check for even panel gaps and make sure the trunk opens and closes without obstruction. Check out the installation video below:   DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Upgrading your Toyota Tundra’s chrome bumper end caps to painted-to-match ones is a sharp visual mod you can DIY. In this step-by-step guide, we walk through the process shown by Rolando from ReveMoto, along with helpful insights he shares along the way. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned DIYer, this guide will help make your swap go smoothly. Tools Required Panel removal tool or flathead screwdriver 10mm socket and ratchet 12mm socket Extension bar for hard-to-reach bolts Phillips screwdriver Utility knife or Dremel tool (for trimming plastic) Flathead screwdriver (for clips) Safety gloves (recommended) 🛠️ Convert your 2016–2023 Toyota Tacoma chrome end cap to a paint-to-match upgrade! Shop Tacoma Rear Bumper End Cap Conversion Step-by-Step Instructions Use a panel removal tool—or if you don’t have one, a flathead screwdriver works just fine—to remove the plastic push pins in the wheel well. Remove two 10mm bolts and one 12mm bolt located underneath the bumper near the fender liner. Open the hood. Remove four 10mm bolts along the top of the grille and two push pins near each headlight. Carefully pull the grille out and unplug the sensor behind it. Go slow here to avoid damaging the sensor wiring. Remove two 10mm bolts above the end cap, located on the headlight filler panel. Remove the push pins securing the filler panel above the end cap. Pull the panel outward and unplug the fog light wires if connected. Remove multiple bolts behind the headlight filler, including at least two 10mm bolts and one 12mm bolt. Under the front bumper, remove three 10mm bolts in the lower valance area. Remove the remaining upper bolts and a push pin to fully release the bumper. Gently pull the front bumper off and place it on a soft surface. A friend can help here—it’s bulky. Locate and remove four 10mm bolts holding the chrome end cap to the bumper reinforcement. Carefully lift and remove the end cap.  Repeat the same removal process on the opposite side. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the fog light housing. Push the fog light back and downward to release it from the housing. Remove the black fog light mounting bracket by pinching and pulling it free from the bumper panel. Unclip and disconnect the fog light sensor by pressing the locking tab and gently pulling it apart. Use a flathead to remove any additional clips or accessories from the end cap. Trim the excess plastic tab on the back of the new painted end cap using a utility knife or Dremel. Saw carefully along the edge until the piece is cleanly removed. Work slowly and cut away from your hands. Insert the black sensor bezel into the end cap, pressing it in until it snaps securely. Trim any plastic around the opening if needed. Then reinstall the fog light and secure it with the original screws. Flip the cap upside down and install the sensor mount bracket from the back side of the black sensor bezel. Ensure it fits snugly into place and all tabs are secured. If a tab doesn’t click in, check for misalignment. Insert the parking sensor into the back of the black sensor bezel. If it doesn’t fit snugly, lightly shave the plastic prongs. Rotate the clip until it locks firmly with no movement. Install the metal reinforcement brackets inside the painted end cap, aligning them with the holes. These provide added stability and help secure the bumper edge. Temporarily secure the bumper to the top of the reinforcement bar with one grey bolt to hold it in place during alignment. This will help hold it in place while you align the rest of the components. Slide the front bumper back over the bumper reinforcement bar and check that everything fits evenly. Adjust the fog light trim or grommets as needed to allow the bumper to sit flush. If it’s stuck, pull the trim piece down gently to allow clearance. Reinstall the following bolts: The four 10mm bolts from Step 4 (top of the grille area) The two 10mm bolts and one 12mm bolt from Step 2 (underneath the bumper) The three 10mm bolts from Step 10 (lower valance area) Any remaining push pins and bolts from Step 11 (upper bumper area) The lower bolt with the spring-style bracket at the bottom of the end cap Note: Depending on how the new end caps and brackets align, not all bolts may need to be reinstalled. Only reinstall those that fit properly and secure the bumper firmly. Once both end caps are installed, reinstall the grille by aligning it with the top mounting points. Reconnect the sensor that was unplugged in Step 5, then secure the grille using the four 10mm bolts and two push pins removed earlier. Also, double-check that the parking sensors on both end caps are fully inserted, connected, and secure. You're Done! Your Tundra now has a clean, color-matched look with freshly installed painted end caps. This upgrade not only looks better than chrome—it adds a personalized touch to your vehicle. Check out this video: DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Looking to replace the fender on your Tesla Model Y? Whether it’s the driver or passenger side, this step-by-step guide has you covered. From safely removing the trim, clips, and bolts to reinstalling a pre-painted fender, this walkthrough shows exactly how to get the job done , no guesswork, no fluff. This process was done on a real Model Y at the ReveMoto shop, where a customer brought in their vehicle for a full fender swap using one of our color-matched, ready-to-install panels. If you're repairing damage or upgrading the look of your Tesla, this install guide will walk you through every part of the fender replacement process, clearly and confidently.Tools Needed: 10mm socket and ratchet Flathead screwdriver (for clips and tabs) Plastic trim removal tool (helps avoid scratching panels) Panel clip pliers or removal tool T40 Torx bit (may not always be needed, but good to have) Extension bar for reaching deeper bolts Work light (helpful for visibility in the frunk and wheel well) Microfiber towel or mat (optional, to protect paint and parts while working) 🚗 Replace your 2020–2024 Tesla Model Y fender with a painted one! Shop Painted Fender for Tesla Model Y Step by Step Guide: Start by removing the push pin near the fender trim using a panel removal tool or a flathead screwdriver. Pull off the fender trim piece carefully; it should come off easily as it’s held in place by clips. Locate the 10mm bolt underneath the fender trim piece and remove it using a socket wrench. Slightly pull back the front bumper to reveal a hidden 10mm bolt near the wheel well and remove that bolt. Continue to remove any other visible 10mm bolts behind the bumper in the same area. Use a plastic tool to gently pry off the side marker light from the fender. Disconnect the side marker by pressing the clips and pulling the plug free. Move to the lower section of the fender and remove the 10mm bolt located near the mud flap. Detach the mud flap by using a flathead screwdriver or trim tool to remove the plastic push clip located on the inner edge of the mud flap behind the front tire. Behind the mud flap area, locate and remove two more 10mm bolts hidden under the door trim. Open the driver’s door and locate a 10mm bolt in the door hinge area, then remove it. Pop open the hood and remove the plastic trim cover above the front trunk (frunk) area. Locate a push pin near the windshield washer reservoir under the frunk cover and remove it using a ratchet and socket. Use a ratchet and socket to remove the 10mm bolts securing the front trunk liner, starting with the one near the right edge. Use the ratchet and socket to remove the two 10mm bolts securing the front trunk liner—one near the right edge and the other on the left side near the latch area. Remove the front trunk liner by lifting it upward and out of the frunk to reveal the fasteners and mounting points underneath. Remove the two 10mm bolts along the upper frame rail under the frunk liner where the fender is secured. Locate another two 10mm bolts along the top edge of the fender near the cowl and remove them. Use a plastic tool to carefully pull back the front bumper and pop off the plastic clip that connects the bumper to the fender. Gently pull off the fender from the vehicle, being careful not to damage or yank any wiring attached. On the old fender, remove the two headlight mounting brackets by taking out the 10mm bolts holding them in place. Pry off the small plastic tab attached to the front of the fender using a flathead screwdriver or trim tool; it's held in place by back clips and may require light pressure to release. Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt securing the bumper support bracket at the front edge of the fender, then gently wiggle and slide the bracket out of place. Remove the black plastic mounting clips from the top of the fender by pressing down on the back locking tab, then sliding the clip outward to release it from the fender. Detach the final lower clip from the fender by pressing down on the locking tab and releasing it. Insert the black plastic mounting clips along the top of the fender by sliding and snapping them into the metal slots. Install the bumper support bracket to the new fender using the 10mm socket and ensure it’s properly aligned. Reinstall the two headlight mounting brackets onto the new fender using the original 10mm bolts. Reattach the small plastic tab to the front of the fender by snapping the back clips into place. Reinstall the lower clip by pressing it into position until it locks. Position the new pre-painted fender from ReveMoto by placing it over the wiring harness and aligning it with the body structure. Secure the fender temporarily by loosely threading in one of the top bolts to hold it in place. Make sure the front edge of the fender fits properly underneath the headlight assembly. Align the prong at the back of the headlight with the corresponding slot in the fender. Reinstall the headlight and secure it using the black side bolt and white upper bolt near the frunk. Reinstall the lower 10mm bolts near the wheel well and bumper to secure the fender base. Check the hood and fender alignment before tightening all bolts completely. Once satisfied with the fitment, go ahead and tighten all the fender mounting bolts securely, including reinstalling the mud flap using its original clips and bolts. Reinstall the bumper by pushing it into place and securing the bolts underneath. Reinstall the 10mm bolt underneath the fender trim piece that was removed in Step 3 to secure the fender in place. Reinstall the side marker light by connecting the plug and snapping the light back into place on the fender. Reinstall the 10mm bolt in the door hinge area that was removed in Step 11 to secure the inner fender edge. Reattach the wheel arch molding by aligning it with the holes and pressing it firmly along the fender until all clips are secured. Reinstall the front trunk liner by lowering it into the frunk and pressing it down evenly until it is fully seated. Secure the trunk liner by reinstalling the two 10mm bolts on each side of the latch area, along with the two bolts at the bottom of the frunk using a ratchet and socket. Reinstall the plastic trim cover above the frunk area and close the hood to complete the installation. The full video is right below and it walks through the entire fender replacement step by step. From popping off trim to lining everything back up, it’s all there. Sometimes it’s easier to follow along when you can actually see it being done, so definitely give it a watch if you're about to tackle this install yourself.   DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Replacing the rear bumper on a Tesla Model 3 might seem intimidating, but with the right tools and clear steps, it's a job you can tackle at home. This guide covers how to remove and install the rear bumper on a 2017 to 2022 Tesla Model 3, whether you're fixing collision damage or upgrading the look. And if you need a color-matched replacement bumper, ReveMoto offers pre-painted options shipped straight to your door. From removal to reassembly, you'll find straightforward instructions and helpful tips throughout the process.🛠️ Tools You'll Need: T20 Torx bit Flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool 8mm and 10mm socket with ratchet wrench Plastic panel clip remover Soft towels or bumper stand Bubble wrap or a blanket (for protection) 🚗 Replace your 2017–2021 Tesla Model 3 rear bumper with a painted one! Shop Painted Rear Bumper for Tesla Model 3 🔧 Rear Bumper Removal & Installation Steps: Remove the underbody cover by prying up the two plastic tabs using a flathead or trim removal tool. Remove two 10mm bolts located on each side of the bottom bumper. Pull back the fender liner from the wheel well. Use a T20 Torx bit to remove the hidden screw. Repeat on both sides. Inside the trunk, remove the plastic tabs on the liner using a flathead or trim tool, then pull the liner back to access the taillight fasteners. Unscrew the plastic retaining nut. You can use a panel clip remover or your fingers to gently release the clip before unscrewing to make this step easier and avoid damaging the surrounding area. Carefully remove the passenger-side taillight by prying with a plastic trim tool from the side and top while applying outward pressure. This side is tighter and may require gentle leverage to release the tabs without cracking the lens. Once loosened, press out from the inside of the trunk and pull evenly from the rear. Carefully remove the driver-side taillight by pulling straight back with even pressure. This side is generally easier to remove, especially near the charging port, as it allows you to apply equal force across the taillight. Remove the bolts located behind the taillights using a 10mm socket and ratchet. These are found just beneath each taillight housing — one on the passenger side and one on the driver side. Unclip the bumper ends on both sides by pulling outward near each wheel well. On the driver’s side near the charging port, use both hands to pull straight back while applying even pressure. This helps release the tabs cleanly without damaging the bumper. Gently pull the bumper out from the center. Make sure to disconnect the sensor wiring harness before removing the bumper completely. Use a flathead screwdriver to push up on the tabs along the bottom edge of the bumper. These tabs secure the lower valance. Work your way across to release the entire piece. Tip: Push up on the tabs rather than pulling out — you should hear a click as each one releases. Remove the parking sensors by pressing in the side tabs. Be sure to save the rubber grommets, as they will be reused. Remove the locking pins along the lower valance to release it from the bumper. Remove the lower valance by sliding it out from the bumper. If needed, use a flathead screwdriver to help release the tabs as you work across. Remove the reflectors by pressing the locking pins on the back and pushing them out. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead tool to release them. Place the new bumper on a soft surface like towels or a bumper stand to prevent scratches. Reinstall the sensors by aligning them with the tab slots and pressing them in until they click. Ensure the grommets are properly seated to prevent moisture intrusion. Snap the reflectors into place by aligning the tabs with the slots and pressing them in until secure. Slide the lower valance into position on the new bumper and press each locking tab down until fully secured. Secure the lower valance further by tightening the bolts or clips into place along the mounting points. A ratchet or socket tool may be needed. Lay down a blanket, bubble wrap, or a soft cloth to protect the bumper from scratches during installation. Carefully align and loosely position the bumper onto the car’s body. Let it rest gently in place without fully locking it in, to prepare for the following steps. Reinstall the bolts underneath the bumper using a 10mm socket. These help hold the bumper in place temporarily while you complete the wiring and fitment. Reconnect the sensor wiring harness behind the bumper. Push the connectors together firmly until you hear a click, ensuring a secure and weather-tight seal. Once the wiring and bolts are secure, lift the bumper fully into place. Start by pressing the center section until it snaps in, then press the sides near the taillights until the bumper sits flush with the body. Insert the 10mm bolts near the wheel wells on both sides to firmly secure the edges of the bumper to the fenders. Reinstall the 10mm bolts on the lower edge of the bumper, directly behind the rear wheel wells. These bolts correspond to the ones removed in Step 2 and secure the bumper to the underside of the vehicle. Reinstall the 8mm bolt on the taillight bracket to secure it in place before inserting the taillight housing. Align the taillight and press it in until the prongs slide into their slots. Apply firm, even pressure until the taillight sits flush with the body. Reconnect the taillight wiring harness by plugging it in until you hear a click. This ensures the electrical connection is secure before finalizing the taillight installation. Secure each taillight using only the plastic retaining nut. Tighten it by hand or with a tool until snug—no need to overtighten. Repeat this process on the opposite side to complete the taillight installation. Reattach the trunk liner tabs and plastic covers. Reinstall the plastic screw-type trim clip above the taillight by pressing it into place and rotating it clockwise until it locks securely. Reinstall the plastic trunk threshold trim by aligning it with the clips and pressing it down firmly until all tabs snap back into place. From underneath the bumper, reinstall the final 10mm bolt to secure the underbody panel. This helps lock the bumper in place from below. Reinstall the underbody access panel by aligning its tabs and pressing it back into place until secure. The bumper’s on, everything’s secure, and it’s looking good. While some steps might feel a bit tricky the first time around, it’s all manageable if you take your time. This guide covered each step, but if you want to see how it all comes together, you can watch the full install in the video below. It's helpful to see where each clip and bolt actually goes, especially if you're doing it for the first time.   DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Are you ready to transform your 2010-2013 Chevy Camaro LT/LS to look like a 2010-2013 Chevy Camaro SS Model? Here at ReveMoto, we do conversions based on customers' experiences and suggestions. From there, we research how these conversions go. We check it out by actually doing the conversions ourselves, seeing what issues can arise, and how to overcome them. Most of the conversions we have made are on our YouTube Channel, along with our instructional videos, such as videos that explain how to install a new bumper or even how to apply touch-up paint. Painted parts and accessories are available on our website at ReveMoto.com. Back to the Camaro conversion. The most striking difference between the two is that the lip on the Camaro SS bumper goes out a little bit. The bottom grille is also wider. What new parts will you need for this conversion? New painted front bumper Front fascia insert or mail slot Lower grille Fender liners These parts are included in the Camaro Conversion Kit available on ReveMoto.com For the conversion, you'll need these tools: Socket wrench with 10mm and 7mm sockets and T20 torque bits Plastic panel clip removal tool or two flat head screwdrivers Medium extension Drill Rivet gun and rivets a. Remove The Original LT/LS Bumper The first step is to remove the original bumper. Note: keep all the bolts, push pins, and clips as they will be used later on. 1. Start at the bottom of the car There are two 10mm bolts right near the middle that need to be removed.  2. At the top of the bumper, there are six push pins that you can remove using a plastic panel clip removal tool or two flat head screwdrivers. The push pins will need to be wedged up. You need to pry it up and it should come right off.  3. Remove the two secondary 10mm bolts that can be found on top of the bumper on each end.  4. On the fender liner, there are three T20 torque bits screws that need to be taken off. Once those are off, pull the fender liner to the side. 5. Inside, there are 10 mm bolts where the bumper and fender meet. Use a small extension for this to loosen it up. Once it’s loose, the bolts can be removed by hand.  6. Once those are taken off, there are two more bolts that need to be removed: a secondary 10mm bolt and a 7mm bolt. These bolts are just on top of the fender, near the bumper.  7. Do the same thing on the other side. The wheels just need to be rotated to access the fender liner.  8. Now that the clips and bolts are removed on the top and bottom as well as on each side, carefully pull the bumper off. 9. Locate the main harness cable on the right side of the bumper, which connects the fog lights and the turn signals. Remove the clip on the cable, using a flat head screwdriver if needed. b. Remove The Accessories From The LT/LS Bumper It’s time to remove the accessories from the LT/LS that are to be used for this conversion. These are the parts that will are needed from the old bumper: Lower valance/lower mud guard (optional - the one on the original bumper is wider and the one on the SS is shorter in height) Fog lights Turn signal lights Top grille 1. Use a drill to remove the rivets at the top of the bumper. Remove the filler molding on top of the bumper. There should be one on each side. Set them aside. 2. Flip the bumper to see the back of it. Take off the absorber, the one on the middle portion. This can be done by removing the tabs using a flat panel remover or a flat head screwdriver.  3. Take off the wires that connect the signal lights, fog lights, and absorber. Put the absorber aside for later use.  4. Take off the signal lights on each side by using a flat panel remover or flat head screwdriver. Set aside. 5. For the fog lights, take off the cover first by using a flat panel remover or flat head screwdriver, wedge it, and push down. Support the fog light while doing so. Do the same thing when removing the actual fog light. 6. Take off the top grille and check on the tabs that hold it. Use something flat, wedge it, and let the tabs fall off.  7. On the lower valance, take off the 14mm bolts. The lower valance is the rubber piece at the bottom of the bumper.  8. On the sides of the old bumper, there are clips you need to take off to use on the new bumper.   c. Install The Accessories on The SS Bumper 1 . Insert the front fascia insert or mail slot on the SS bumper.  2. With the bumper upside down, put in the top grille from the old bumper. Remove the current emblem on the grille, lining up the prongs first. Once it is lined up, push down the top grille and push up the front bumper. Work from top to bottom, then bottom to top 3. Put in the new lower grille in place, line it up, push it into place, and support the bumper while installing the new lower grille.  4. Put the fog lights into place. Make sure that it’s the correct one on each side. It should be lined up. Make sure the prongs pop into place before pushing it. Finally, put in the bezel. Do the same thing on the other side. 5. Add the absorber from the old bumper and make sure that it lines up. There are two prongs at the top and two prongs at the bottom. Line these up and then push down. 6. Put the clips on each side of the bumper. 7. Put the lower vailings at the bottom of the bumper. Screw and tighten the bolts to secure. 8. Insert the turn signal light into the hole, press it down, and it should snap into place. 9. Connect the wires on the absorber, turn signal lights, and fog lights. 10. Attach the filler molding or top piece on using a rivet gun. Line it up first and make sure all the holes line up. Alternatively, this piece can be secured by screwing it in with nuts and bolts. d. Install The Camaro SS Bumper Now that the accessories are on the new SS bumper, it’s time to install it to the Camaro. d. Install The Camaro SS Bumper Now that the accessories are on the new SS bumper, it’s time to install it to the Camaro. 1. First, hook the harness cables together and slide them in. Make sure that the prongs line up to the holes on each side. Putting the bumper on should be smooth as long as all the prongs are lined up. 2. Once the bumper is in place, secure it on the top with bolts on the side and push pins on top. 3. Proceed with securing the bottom with those 10mm bolts. 4. The next step is to put the bracket on the corner, slide it in, and screw it on to hold it in place. 5. The 10 mm bolts are screwed at an angle. Put them on using hands first, then secure and tighten them with a ratchet. The 7mm bolts are screwed on after. 6. Once that is done, it’s time to put back on the fender liner with the torque bits. These are the three T20 torque bits from the original bumper. You may use the original fender liner, but since the Camaro SS has a wider one, it can be replaced. So there you have it, the instructions on how to transform a 2010-2013 Chevy Camaro LS/LT to a Camaro SS. DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

A front bumper cover is a crucial part of your car's aesthetic look and provides protection from minor accidents. Driving without a bumper cover isn’t just dangerous, but can also be unsightly. We provide bumper cover replacements like the 2010-2011 Toyota Camry Front Bumper painted for your convenience. ReveMoto offers bumper covers that are guaranteed to fit, color-match and have lifetime warranty on the paint job. We also provide guides on how to install your car parts, available on our YouTube Channel and here on the blog. Read on to see how to replace your Toyota Camry Front Bumper once you receive your part from us.  You’ll need: Screwdriver Flat head screwdriver 10 mm socket wrench Razor blade 3M double-sided stick tape Your Toyota Camry bumper replacement starts with popping the hood up and starting from the bottom. It’s always safer to start at the bottom versus on top so you don’t have to worry the bumper might fall off. 1. At the bottom of the bumper, there are approximately eight to 10 10mm bolts that go from one side to the other. These bolts support the engine cover.  2. On each side of the bumper, there are push pins that need to be rotated and removed using a flat head screwdriver. 3. When you open up the fender liner, you’re going to see a 10mm screw. Remove it by using a socket wrench.  4. At the top of the bumper, look for push pins on top of it. Remove them using a flat screwdriver. Push it down in the middle and they’ll come right off. There are approximately 10 of them that run on top of the front bumper. 5. Next, use your Philips screwdriver and take off the two bolts that you can see on each side at the top of the bumper. In the middle, there is one more bolt that needs to be removed.  6. The bumper should be ready to be removed. First, you go on each side and pull it up slowly. Once both sides are pulled up, go to the middle of the bumper and pull it to remove. 7. Put the old bumper upside down to take off the accessories. 8. Take off the grille. There are four screws (one on each side, two in the middle) on top of the grille that need to be taken off.  9. All over the grille area, there are clips. Take your flat head screwdriver and try to get in between, push the clips up. Once all are removed, the grille will come right off.   10. All 2010-2011 Camry front bumper covers come with pre-drilled holes for fog lights. If your car doesn’t have fog lights, it should have fog light covers. To remove the fog light covers, support first the front side while you push the clips of the fog light covers from the back. Do the same thing on the other side. 11. On the side of the bumpers, there are clips that need to be taken off.  12. On the bottom part of the bumper, there are four holes with clips. Unclip it by pinching and pushing it to remove. 13. On the Toyota emblem, support the front part as you remove it by pushing the clips using a flat head screwdriver. 14. On the top of the bumper, there is a rubber weatherstrip or rubber seal that needs to be removed. You can use a razor blade to help you remove it. If the weatherstrip or rubber seal is too brittle, you can just replace it at your local auto parts store. 15. Remove the metal support at the top of the bumper. There will be three pushpins. Press down in the middle to remove them. 16. Put the new bumper upside down and make sure you put something at the bottom to avoid scratches. Install the metal support at the top of the bumper. 17. Next, install the grille and anchor it in a way that it goes straight in the holes. Once it’s set, push it down. Flip the bumper and push the grille so it clips. There will be a sound so you’ll know that it has locked.  18. Once the grille is locked, put in the four screws on top. 19. Put the emblem back on. Just push it until it locks. 20. Next is the lower grille. Follow the same way you did the upper one. 21. Next is the weatherstrip/rubber seal. If you’re using the old one, make sure to take off the residue. You can use a razor blade. If it’s sticky, you can use an alcohol wipes to clean so the new tape will stick better. Place tape across the back of the weatherstrip on the top and bottom. 22. Put the weatherstrip on the bumper and make sure it lines up with the holes. 23. Put the bolts at the bottom of the bumper. 24. Put the clips on each side of the bumper. 25. Install the bumper, top first. Put the screws on top of the bumper.  26. Make sure that your bumper is over the fender brackets. Press down gently the bumper on each side. 27. On each side of the bumper, on the fender liner area, there is a 10mm bolt that needs to be put back. Near that, clip the bumper back. 28. Make sure the bumper is over the engine cover underneath. There are around eight to 10 bolts.   DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.  

Here is how to replace your 2008 to 2015 Nissan Rogue rear bumper cover. This tutorial covers removal and installation. The process is not as difficult as you may think. To replace your 2008 to 2015 Nissan Rogue rear bumper cover, you'll need: New Nissan Rogue rear bumper cover Flat-head screwdriver Socket wrench set Follow these steps to replace your Nissan Rogue rear bumper: 1. Start with the wheel wells. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove the bolt that is found between the bumper and the frame of the vehicle. 2. At the bottom of the bumper near the tire, remove another bolt. Do steps 1 and 2 on the other side of the vehicle. 3. Remove the plastic push pins found under the bumper. There are 5 spread across from end to end. 4. Open the tailgate and remove the bolts securing the bumper found on both sides. 5. Safely remove the bumper starting from one end. The bumper should fall off easily. 6. Snap your new bumper on. 7. Replace the bolts (removed in step 4) to secure the bumper. 8. Make sure that both ends of the bumper are snapped properly. 9. Put back the bolts found in between the bumper and the frame of the vehicle (removed in step 1). 10. Put back the bolts at the bottom of the bumper on each side (removed in step 2). 11. Put back the push pins under the bumper. There should be 5 (removed in step 3). 12. Check and tighten the bolts. There you have it: the steps to replace your Nissan Rogue rear bumper.    DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Your side view mirror is very important to a safe drive. This is how to do a 2010 to 2012 Lexus ES350 side view mirror replacement.  This side view mirror is attached differently from most others. For this replacement, the door panel needs to be removed. The nuts and fasteners are also on the base of the door. You'll need these tools to replace the side view mirror: New Lexus ES350 side mirror Phillips-head screwdriver Flat-head screwdriver Socket wrench set 1. Start by removing the window power module with the flat-head screwdriver. Use a towel to prevent scratching.  2. Unplug the connectors. 3. Remove the armrest screws. 4. Remove the door handle cover. Use a towel to prevent scratching.  5. Remove the screw underneath the door handle cover.  6. Remove the screw that can be found on the left side of the door panel and on the right side just below the lock. 7. Remove the door panel, starting from the bottom and pulling back, then up. 8. Loosen the door trim. 9. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove the side mirror bolts. Be careful not to drop it so you wouldn’t need to take the whole door apart.  10. Pull to remove the old side view mirror. 11. Be sure to clean the part where you removed the old mirror. 12. Some side view mirrors come with a new gasket. If there is one already, do not reuse it or put on the old one on top of the new one. Otherwise, you may have fitment issues. 13. Mount the new side view mirror. 14. Organize the wires and use some tape if needed. 15. Plug in the side view mirror.  16. Check the functionality of the side view mirror. 17. Secure the side view mirror with the bolts removed on step 9. Don’t over tighten so you don’t break the screws. 18. Fix the door trim and put back the door panel. Put the screws you removed in steps 5 and 6 back on the left part of the door panel and on the door handle cover. 19. Put back the door handle cover. 20. Plug the connector found on the armrest. 21. Put back the armrest cover and do a functionality check. 22. It’s done! Your side view mirror is now installed.   DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.

Converting your 2014 to 2017 Infiniti Q50 to look like a 2016 to 2017 Q50 Sport Model is one of the easiest to do. Here's what you'll need to make the conversion:  Custom painted 2016 to 2017 Infiniti Q50 front bumper  Fog light bezels Lower grille Screws Tow hook cover 10mm socket wrench Flat-head screwdriver These parts are included in the conversion kit available here at ReveMoto, except for the wrench and screwdriver. We have also listed the instructions here to help you with the conversion! 1. Start off at the bottom of the Infiniti Q50. You’ll see about eight bolts that need to be removed using a 10 mm socket wrench.  2. Turn the wheel to expose the bolts on the side of the bumper. 3. Using a flat head screwdriver, pry the bolts on the fender liner. 4. Using a 10-millimeter socket wrench, remove the bolt that can be found where the bumper and fender meet. Repeat all of the above steps on the other side. 5. On the top side of the hood, push back the cover to take off the bolt.  6. Remove the engine cover by removing the push pins. 7. Remove the bumper. Start on the sides, pull up, and remove carefully. 8. Disconnect the fog lights from the bumper. 9. Remove the clips at the bottom of the bumper using a flat-head screwdriver.  10. Take off the bracket on top of the bumper. 11. Remove the bolts using a 10-millimeter socket. 12. Remove the daytime running light. Using a 10-millimeter socket wrench, remove the screws at the top of the light.  13. Using a screwdriver, take off the remaining screws to remove the fog light.  14. With a screwdriver, remove the clips from the base where the fog lights were removed. 15. Remove the fog light covers.  16. Using a 10-millimeter socket wrench, remove the eight nuts that are around the upper grille. 17. Remove the two tabs at the bottom and four tabs at the top of the grille. 18. Take off the rubber piece at the bottom of the bumper called the weatherstrip or bumper seal. This is easy to take off by pulling it off. If it’s a little hard, use a blade. 19. Install the bezels on the new bumper. 20. Make sure the holes line up and put in the clips. 21. Put in the fog lights. To be sure that you’re putting the fog light on the correct side, make sure that everything lines up.  22. Put the clips on the sides of the fog lights. 23. Install the daytime running lights.  24. Put in the screws to secure the fog light.  25. Next step is to install the lower grille. Make sure that the prongs line up with the holes on the grille. 26. Install the upper grille. Same with the lower grille, make sure that the holes line up properly. Push the grille until it locks. 27.  Put the screws on to secure the upper grille. Do not overtighten. 28. Stick the weatherstrip at the bottom of the bumper using a double sided tape.  29. Install the top bumper bracket. Line the prongs to match the holes on the bumper. Snap it into place. 30. Secure it with 10 mm bolts. 31. Put the clips on the lower part of the bumper. 32. It’s time to install the bumper. Note that the bar at the bottom front of the Q50 should be in between the lower end of the bumper and the grille when installed. 33. Install the top bumper brackets removed on step 5. 34. Install the bolt in between where the front bumper and fender meet, which you removed on step 4. 35. Put back the engine cover. 36. Put back the lower engine cover at the bottom of the vehicle. 37. Install the emblem. 38. Install the hitch cover. There you have it! Need more guidance? Watch our video below for reference. DISCLAIMER: While ReveMoto tries to make the information in this blog as accurate as possible, we make no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the content. No information contained in this blog shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself (DIY) projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. ReveMoto is not responsible or liable for any loss, damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this blog.